B2600 / RX7 Model R

All the oily, spinning bits

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DJpowerHaus
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B2600 / RX7 Model R

Post by DJpowerHaus »

I'm slowly going to go through this post and clean up so that only important info is retained. I'll proabably make this into more of a FAQ thread than the discussion that it currently is.

Q:What year B2600s have the Mitsubishi Wideblock bellhousing?
A:12/1986 - 6/1988

Q:What flywheel can I use?
A:For 6 bolt engines you can use any flywheel that will work on a Starion or other 6 bolt wideblocks including aftermarket flywheels. 7 bolt engines are limited to useing stock truck flywheels unless there is an aftermarket alternative that I do not know about.

Q:How much stronger is the RX7 tranmission from the Starion or D50 transmissions?
A:This is a hard question to answer. Many drag cars have gone 10s in the quarter mile on stock Turbo II transmissions though.

Q:What's the difference between a S4 and S5 RX7 transmission?
A:The biggest differnece is the rear mount. There are some small casting differences in the case and the S4 has a larger thread on the shifter. Some people claim that the S5 is stonger than the S4 as well.
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Post by SQadmin »

I've been looking into this stuff ALOT lately.. now that I've gone through all these D50 transmissions. I'm building a 2.4L wideblock 4G64.. same pattern as the 2.6... same block as the B2600 pickup.

I'm wondering if anyone has seen/heard of/ tried the B2600 bellhousing to Rx7 Turbo 2 transmission... aka Model R. All of these (Below) transmissions have removable bellhousings. I'm not sure of how the input shafts compare, or shifter locations... or even metalurgy / bearing differences. I'm going to do more research for sure.

'R' gear ratio's
Car 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
1988-89 929 3.483:1 2.015:1 1.391:1 1:1 .762:1
1987-88 TII 3.483:1 2.015:1 1.391:1 1:1 .762:1
1989-91 TII 3.483:1 2.015:1 1.391:1 1:1 .719:1
1993-95 FD3S 3.483:1 2.015:1 1.391:1 1:1 .719:1
89-93 B2600 3.730:1 2.158:1 1.396:1 1:1 .816:1
(from <a href='http://members.aol.com/solomiata/Drivetrain.html' target='_blank'>http://members.aol.com/solomiata/Drivetrain.html</a> ... lets see if those columns line up for everybody!)

Compared to the D50/Starion ratios:
1st 3.369
2nd 2.035
3rd 1.360
4th 1.00
5th 0.856
(from my site, pimpin')

Wondering if any Starion people have tried this in the past. And does anybody here have experience with the strength of RX7 TurboII transmissions? I reliable source (2 actually) has told me that the TII tranny is strong.. possibly stronger than the W58.. which, if all Heefners effort was not in vain, is stronger than the Starion transmission. Sure would like to know just how much stronger though. I've got 600hp in my near future.

It'll probably shift better then a Starion tranny.... RX7s redline and shift at like 9000rpm or something, dont they? The only problem I have heard is that the 5th gear synchros go bad in them.
aka DJpowerHaus, who forgot to switch back to the right name.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

From the centerforce catalog:

DSM 20x7/8 spline NO CFT P/N 225mm
88-89 Quest 23x1 P/N CFT537033 240mm <<<<
2.6L D50 23x1 P/N CFT581780 225mm
2.4L D50 23x1 P/N CFT581789 225mm
2.0L D50 23x1 P/N CFT510001 215mm
86-88 RX7 23x1 P/N CFT544020 240mm <<<<

All the splines are the same size at least! So starion people who upgrade to the RX7 tranny... wont have to change flyswheels.. clutches.. even disks... We'll see. It's all coming down to length of the input shaft now.

Oh yeah.. the starter is on the drive side.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Post by Mike »

I got some initial turbo II input shaft measurements from ebay: The splinned part to the end on the shaft is 2 3/4 inches and the bellhousing is off so the whole shaft is 5 1/4.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Here is an email correspondance.. I dont know if this person has stopped by here.. but there is some info for all of you.

Hello mike
Oh..now i see what you are doing...Yes i think the B2600i 2WD
bellhousing will work on the 2.6 starion block..thay are very identical.
I have that bellhousing but have to look for it. A turbo II tranny will
bolt to the B2600 b-housing with no mods and the spline and lengh is
pefect for the starion clutch. Worst case is the shaft is a bit to long
(where the pilot bearing fits) but you can cut it down to size then
debur it with some sand paper.
The Turbo II tranny to me is not stronger than a celica/supra iron case
or the W58...what the Turbo II tranny does have over those toyota
trannies are the lower gearing 1st is something like 3.30 as apose to 
toyota's all 3.60+ 1st gear ..and lower gearing is benificial for turbo
use, and yes the Turbo II tranny is hydrauulic

We use the iron case celica. truck or supra 1972-1983 W50 tranny in all
our drag cars and they hold up very well..After this its T5 mustang and
then G-force/jerico but GM trannies have 2-3times the drag of jap
trannies and 5-15K on Gforce trannies is not atainable for everyone.

What i do have in my shed is a R150 5-Speed manual out of a 2WD V6
toyota 1Ton truck. This is a monster..
I was planning to use this on my drag car once i broke my current tranny
but that day hasent come yet...I have it with the driveshaft and an old
clutch that you can machine the spline center off and put on your
clutch. But if you want the TurboII/B2600 setup i can see what i can do.

And your buddy who is doing a Rx7 4x4 conversion with the B2600 tranny
just happened to buy the transmision setup from me.
Small world..AJ Condon..he works in MD at his families j-yard...that is
too funny.

Let me know how i can help.
also you mentioned have D50 parts....Do you know of a 1978-1986 D50
truck complete?
I have been looking for one and cant seem to find a rust free frame and
chassis.
Regards
Jonathan

Michael Bowman wrote:

> More or less a 2.6L block.  Mitsubishi also made a 4G63 family engine
> for the D50 pickup with the same bellhousing... but 2.4L instead of
> the Eclipse's 2.0L.. and the 2.0L DOHC head bolts to it.  I have a
> similar setup with the D50 truck transmission but I've broken 2 in the
> last year with low boost.  My next motor is going to have LOTS  of
> power (Holset HX35 with 2.4L w/ 9:1 comp, Autronic ECU... all
> supporting mods.).  Need something STRONG for the transmission.  I
> have considered some GM alternatives w/ Adapter plates which I am
> unsure of (big investment to find out how it works.. plus American
> junk yards know the value of American transmissiosn, but dont have a
> clue with most Japanese transmissions).. Toyota W58 w/ hacked
> bellhousings.. stock Starion transmission (better than the D50
> transmission)... but the RX7 transmission w/ B2600 bellhousing seems
> much better.  I good friend who works at an RX7 shop in California
> says the RX7 TII tranny is strong.. if not stronger than the Toyota
> W58 (MK3 Supra) tranny.
>
> Both the Starion and the RX7 share a 23x1 spline and both have have a
> 240mm clutch.  I'm HOPING the input shaft of the RX7 transmission with
> the B2600 bellhousing will be the correct length to use a Starion
> clutch/flywheel combo.  I dont even know if its a hydraulic clutch or
> not.  Still alot of information to find.  If you can help, I'd love
> it.  I have a website where we are discussing this transmission..
> among other RWD 4G63 topics: <a href='http://zerog.beatingyou.com' target='_blank'>http://zerog.beatingyou.com</a> We have a new
> member who is only a few minutes from my house who is doing a 4x4 RX7
> with a Rotary bellhousing and B2600 transmission.. plus he runs a
> scrap yard!
>
> ~Mike
> aka DJpowerHaus.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <jonathan@c2ctech.com>
> To: "Michael Bowman" <manga_cowboy@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 11:10 AM
> Subject: Re: B2600 parts.. I want to buy a bellhousing
>
>
>> You want to use a Turbo II tranny in on a starion 2.6 block?
>> Please explain to me what you are trying to do..i think i can help.
>>
>> Regards
>> Jonathan
>>
>>
>> Michael Bowman wrote:
>>
>>> I saw a post on nopistons you made about having lots of B2600 parts
>>> that you watn to turn into $$$.  I have no clue how old it is (I
>>> googled it). Any luck on me getting a B2600 bellhousing that will
>>> bolt to the RX7 TurboII transmission?  I need it for a my 500hp 2.4L
>>> 4G64 powered Starion swap!
>>>  ~Michael Bowman
>>> <a href='http://zerog.beatingyou.com' target='_blank'>http://zerog.beatingyou.com</a>
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Last night I physically touched and traced the B2600 bellhousing that AJ wasnt using... 4x4 Rotary.. doesnt need the B2600 bellhousing. This is what I found and it totally isnt anything promising.. maybe its the wrong orientation.... or maybe its the wrong model.. wrong year. Somebody help!

Image
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

Is this a B2600 or B2600I? What year is it? 87-88 B2600 (carbed) for sure used the G54B, the 89-93 B2600I (injected) used Mazda's version of the 2.6L which I can't comment on.

89-93 B2600I 4x4 Transmission
Image

87-88 B2600 4X2 Transmission
Image

BTW why did you mirror the conquest bellhousings?
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

That looks like it... It appears I flipped the tracings accidently to have the starters on the same side. In reality the starters are on different sides of the engine.

Is the B2600 RWD tranny the EXACT same box as the 4WD Box and RX7 box?... strength wise, bearing wise, syncro wise. Gearing looks to be similar (in a link somewhere up this thread).
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

We could even look into this... <a href='http://www.mazdacomp.com/drivetrain.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.mazdacomp.com/drivetrain.htm</a>
T-5 Transmission Adapter.
Made from strong 7075 t-6 Billet Aluminum.Uses FORD Transmission with Mazda earlystyle bell housing.
World Class T-5 Transmission.
Tremec TKO Transmission part#1007
Image

T5 adapter plate for an RX7. You'd need to use a custom clutch that most places could probably put together for you (like southbend clutch) mustang spline with a 240mm starion disk to be used with the starion flywheel.

So basically.. its a bolt together T5 setup for the 2.6 and other wideblocks.

A strong possibility...
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

I would think the B2600 transmission is based off the S4 TII transmission, and the B2600I is based off the S5 TII transmission. Supposedly the S5 is better, but I haven't seen any evidence why it is. Also I have been told the S4 and S5 are interchangeable except for the rear mount. I think the 4X2 and 4X4 transmissions are similar, but the final drive ratio and gearing would probably be a bad match.
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Post by Mike »

Wouldn't that adaptor shorten the input shaft length? I'm not sure how long a T5 input shaft is, but it would definately need to be long to work.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

There are lots of different input shaft lengths available for popular american transmisions
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

I found an ok source of TII transmissions at <a href='http://www.rx7heaven.com/miva_frame.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.rx7heaven.com/miva_frame.htm</a> They aren't listed there on the page but the guy tells me he has 3 S4 TII transmissions for $300 each. I asked him why there's a difference in price from the S4 and S5 and he told me the S4 and S5 are interchangeable except for some of the internal parts and balance weight. The reason for the price difference is the availibility of S5 transmissions. Apparently they're pretty rare in the US. You can find them pretty easily from JDM importers though.
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Post by rarson »

I'd buy one, but being in Guam, shipping is a big deal. It's quite a bit more expensive and takes forever for stuff to get here. I got lucky and now there's a guy parting out a TII, so if I can get him to give me a good deal, I'll just do that.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Mike, can you post an image, like the others you have posted, but of the RX7 turbo II setup?
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

Is there anything specific you wanted?

Image

Image

Image

Image
Speedometer Cable, Neutral, Reverse, and 5th Gear Sensors

Image

Image

Image

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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I'm just curious as to how much throwout fork hardware will work on the B2600 bellhousing as it does on the RX7 stuff. I'm pretty worried about that part of the hybrid.

Now I'm going to have to track down the front yolks of the driveshaft, a shifter, a slave cylinder and a starter that will work with this. Any ideas? Donors?
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Darn used parts dealer sent me the 4WD bellhousing... tried to make me feel like I didnt knwo what was going on and that "the 2WD and 4WD manual bellhousings are the same.. the automaotics are different.." So I sent him the links to the photos on the thread here. Taking a long time figuring this one out to call me back I guess... its been over an hour.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

Don't let them send you an AT bellhousing either.

Image
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Post by Mike »

Look in the used car listings such a Autotrader.com and Cars.com and Ebay. Many times, if not listed, you can call and ask for the VIN number. I took a bried look, and didn't find any 87-88 RWD Manual B2600s, but you may want to double check. Also, try calling salvage yards and see if they have one.

Image

Tonight I can't help you much but tomorrow I might be able to make some calls.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I dont know if any of you have fiddled with the mitusbishi parts site that was posted on here somewhere.. but I looked around and found one for... everything.. including Mazda. And I found this:

<a href='http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index. ... atalogid=1' target='_blank'>http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index. ... logid=1</a>

That's a Mitsubishi 2.6 if I've ever seen one! And it says its for an 89-93. And it doesnt show any other blocks for the 2.6. What's the deal? What did the OTHER 2.6 block look like?
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

It's the same image. Those illustrations can be misleading at times. Manufacturers like to recycle them just for a general idea of the setup, not much detail. I'm not a big Mazda buff, but it seems like Mazda basically copied the G54B AKA AM1 (2555cc) and made thier own similar engine G6 (2606cc). Hyundai has been using reverse engineered (identical copies) of Mitsubishi engines for years. I should really ask my contact at Hyunda if he knows any Mazda people who would know about this.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

5/84-5/89
2555cc (2.6L)
VIN Code: E
Chrysler, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, D-50, Montero, B2600, G54B,
RWD, MCA Jet Head, Hydraulic rockers,
13.25" Across Bellhousing Bolts,
ST trans. 1/83-4/86 Stk. 5/86 up AT or Std.

8/88-95
2606cc (2.6L)
VIN Code: G6
Ford, Mercury, Mazda, G6 Engine, 8/88-95 MPV, 11/88-93 B2600,
FI, 12 Valve, Balance shaft, Hydraulic lifters, WP.
If '86-88 B2600, see Mitsubishi G54B engine 2610.2.

Yeah.. the above is a mess... but the page is quite familiar:
<a href='http://64.233.187.104/search?q=cache:y_ ... sing&hl=en' target='_blank'>http://64.233.187.104/search?q=cache:y_ ... g&hl=en</a>


At least we have engine codes to work with now.
Mazda pattern: G6
Mitsu pattern: G54B

Now I just need to find a way to convince the parts guys that I'm right.. becuase I am. Sure would be nice to have a name of a tech at a mazda dealership that could speak with them.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

So I might have given the wrong year..?

Looks like the CORRECT years for that RWD Manual B2600 drawing above was 5/84-5/89 NOT 89-93. Strange. At least there is an overlap year.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

Those look like production dates, not model years. The "B2600" (carbed, G54B) was only sold as 87 and 88 model years, while the "B2600I" (EFI, G6) was sold as 89-93. What year did you tell them? I think you mayu have answered your own question.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I am sending back my wrong bellhousing and getting back $30-40 of my dollars. Oh well. I'll just add it to the price of Mike's transmission :-D. I did do my research though.. the years you want for the G54B bellhousing are: 87-88

I also called 5 dealerships.. all but 1 was incompetant. So I at least got part numbers and the block # for the mazda G54B:

G54B bellhousing: AM0216210 (B)
G6 bellhousing: G60716211 (E)

"88 block" (G54B?): AM1702200
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I was looking on ebay last night after the frustration of not finding anything bellhousing wise for a 2WD B2600 Manual from 87-88. Then I find an auction with this title:

88 MAZDA B-2600 TRANSMISSION WITH TRANSFER CASE 2.6L 4 CYL. MANUAL 4 WHEEL DRIVE

Its definatly 4WD.. and it definatly has a G54B bellhousing on it. Mike, what can you tell me? Compatible with the RX7 transmissions? Looks the same.. although there is that strange slant it has. I think my G6 bellhousing has that slant too.
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

Image

It looks like those two holes don't match up for some reason, maybe you can match them up better to tell for sure. Which ones are necessary?

Image
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Post by Mike »

What slant are you talking about? All the required engine to bellhousing bolts match up, and from the pictures, the bellhousing to transmission bolt pattern looks exactly the same. Now that I have seen a G54B 4X4 bellhousing, I'm pretty confident it will work just the same as a RWD. Have you gotten those TII transmissions yet?
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Mike, remember that these photos are taken from different distances and angles.. also with different cameras and different lenses... lots of distortion towards the edges in most cases... that explains some.

As for the holes.. there are only 2 that REALLY matter. Those are the 2 dowelled lower bellhousing bolts. There are listed on some of the online rebuilt motor pages as a G54B w/ 13.25" lower bellhousing bolts... these are the same. The other 2 that are needed but not NEEEEDED are the starter holes.. pretty easy to find them.. This can even be rotated any where around the bellhousing in a space that a starter could fit (survive). The 2 top ones are the questionable ones. Their purpose isnt really to possition the transmission, but to clamp it to the block. They are probably the same... and if they are not.. their usage allows for them to be either redrilled or slotted. They only need to clamp. This is only worst case though.. I dont see that they'd be different.

As for the other holes on the Starion bellhousing.. they arent even used on that block other than the lower stone sheild which is easy to make (ask me how I know ;-)) The extra ones on the Mazda.. who knows. Mazda's have so many holes.. sorta like Nissans. I like Mitsu... 6 bolts is all you need.

As for the "tilt".. it just seems (to me) like the whole box would be tilted.. and if its tilted.. then the shifter points tilted... but who knows.. need to get these RX7 trannies in. The check has been cashed and is clearing.. then they are sent via Overnite Express to a local terminal where I can pick them up in dad's pick-em-up truck.

As for the 4WD stuff.. its pretty neat. I have seen a KM.. or was it FM 132 4WD in a 4WD 2.6L mightymax (has 4.22 rear gears too :-D)

Speaking of rears... the Starion has a 3.54:1, The D50s usually have a 3.9:1 but can have a 4.22:1. I have heard of conquests with 4.66:1 gears from a Montero, but dont have any details. We cannt use the Mazda gearsets, but they can help us to see what works with the S5 transmission and what upgrades Mazda guys do. The RX7s came stock around 4:1 but have a BUNCH of ratios available from the Mazda and aftermarket parts bin:

3.3 (option on diesel pickup) to 4.444 (pickup) to 4.875 (aftermarket for FD) to 5.38!!!!(aftermarket Miata) (Info here: <a href='http://members.ij.net/mrmazda/interchan ... FFERENTIAL' target='_blank'>http://members.ij.net/mrmazda/interchan ... RENTIAL</a> ).

Neat stuff to consider. Matt thinks with 500+hp 3.5 is even too much multiplication of torque... even though it should get me close to 200mph top speeds.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Finally! I got my hands on a correct bellhousing... here comes alot of pictures and updates...

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Here is a photo of everything bolted together. This has the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, TOB, TOB fork, slave cylinder, starter and starter plate. The starter plate, starter, clutch and flywheel (the expensive bits) are all Starion parts. I have yet to test the system by hooking up a master and pedal or seeing if the starter turns the flywheel (it will).

Here are some differences and simularities:
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RX7 and B2600 TOBs and forks are identical. Starion TOB is too small, but the fork possibly could work.

Slave cylinders are all different and only the B2600 one will work.

I did notice a difference in the correct bellhousings too:
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Note the 2 missing bolts on mine. It bolts up though. I'll worry about it when I sheer the other 8 off.

Tomorrow or so I'll be installing it to see how the shifter and crossmember locations look.
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:38 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I've been mega lazy with progress only happening with my dad's boot aimed right at my ass. This weekend I had to clean out the whole garage so that we can start preparing for concrete. Just imagine a car in a garage.. now imagine it completely disassembled spread over the whole building... now imagine that you need to move EVERYTHING out in a day.

So it got me moving really quickly. We put on putting the 240SX 5 lug hubs and Conquest wheels. The trasnsmission was being held up by a jack so we needed to work on the crossmember to hold it in.


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What I did was mock the crossmember up with a plywood / 2x4 jig that would get the basic geometry correct. I then used a photo I took of the transmission in the car to figure out the tilt of the transmission mount compared to the chassis. This all came together and I drew the profile of it up on a 2x6 (its as good as paper). I took this up to my dad's friend Bobby and he sheered and bent up a piece of steel for me. Its the thickest he could sheer so that's what I got. We bent it up and its turned out great. We made two while we were at it! I'll sell it to whoever buys one of these damn RX7 transmissions from me.

The bends and angles turned out PERFECT. I then drilled holes to bolt it to the chassis and drilled, grinded and filed the slots so the RX7's rubber mounts could slide in. It all went together pretty simply and looks great.

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Probably should box it in before any 600ft/lb dyno pull or clutch kicks though. We're going to add plates on the front and back of it to add strength, but for now it will hold the transmission in great. It also clears the speedometer cable perfectly too. I'll post some photos in the morning.
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

The hydrualics are pretty simple. You use the B2600 slave cylinder and you can just hook the rubber line up to your stock hardline. Now as a discalimer, I havent done this personally yet, but I have yet to see a non 10mm double flare on a japanese car yet. Nothing tricky here. There are bigger things to worry about...

As for the transmisisons I'm selling, I only have 1 more with the rubber mounts. Two of the others do not have this mount/bushing. The last one I have its a total oddball. The casting of the main case and the extension housing are both slightly differnet. The rubber mount is also different. I'll document these differences soon.

So right now it looks like you will need to find a driveshaft (front half) and a B2600 slave cylinder and bellhousing. Can someone find prices on the transmission bushings for us? How about driveshaft yolks? I do believe there are some aftermarket ones available.

I'm going to attempt to use the RX7 driveshaft end with a Starion u-joint and yolk. This way we will only need this one part. No guarantees yet. It looks possible though. You'd probably have to weld in the u-joints since the Rx7 part doesnt have a groove for the clip ring. (AE86 Corrollas and others are this way as well.) Currently the RX7 ujoint is held in by plastic that pressed in. I hear you can just press it out and it'll sheer the plastic and release the u-joint.

Edit..... I tried pressing them out.. they are not held in by plastic, but rather striked in. Easy to sheer off the little strikes... but after that you're on your own. I couldnt get any further. I will be buying new spicer yolks. Part numbesr further down this thread.
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Looks like they're not held in by rubber.. it is actually metal that has been stamped in slightly... we pressed them out though.. and they are NOT the same size u-joints. The Starion ones are a little larger. I'm looking for options now.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
yokomosQUEST
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Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:18 am
Location: Modesto Ca.

Post by yokomosQUEST »

mike you need to format this into a list like the engine build up!
start with the correct bell housing and year,
slave cyl,
trans year and model,
clutch fork model,
etc, you know what i mean, there is just so much info in so many post's, i cant find them all and take notes.
i have had half these parts in my hands and just let them go cause i didnt know id need them.
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Is this a good start? http://projectzerog.com/rx7transmissions.shtml

I'll add pictures sometime soon. Are there still any un answered questions? I know I have to still proof read it.

EDIT: OMG the link had changed so I went onto the site to find it again. Turns out that I forgot to post the link anywhere! I found it and now there is a link to it on the Transmissions page. Sorry.
Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
jeffball610
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Location: Las Vegas, NV

Post by jeffball610 »

What happened to the site you linked to? It doesn't have any info on it. I'd really like to see what's going on, rather than just hearing about it. Let us know of any other updates.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

That link stopped working when the site moved. Here is the new link: http://www.projectzerog.com/rx7transmissions.shtml
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Mike
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Location: Aurora, IL

Post by Mike »

Will not work. They are weaker, and have a different bolt pattern.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Totally different transmission. Differnent spline, etc.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
rarson
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Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 12:10 am

Post by rarson »

Just to add, in case anyone didn't know, the bellhousing on these trannies is not detachable.

It's okay though, they wouldn't withstand the power anyway. They're pretty weak.
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