funny seeing you here. galant replacement?Gordian79 wrote:hey bill.what are the chances that i can use this plate with a manual Gforce clutchless 5 speed tranny.being that the adapter from 4g to gm crank i would be able to use a ram finger clutch or something similar.i will be using a trick titanium 8 5/8 gm bell housing.
Turbo 350 trans adaptor
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screemin eagle
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88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
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Bill Hincher
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I would have to see the flywheel because I have no place for a working pilot bearing, if the flywheel has a center that can hold a pilot bearing it could be done , but it may be over load the coupler with the stress inputs brought in from the rear wheels back through the driveline that I didnt have to deal with in an auto trans set up
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screemin eagle
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same user name from nyccdsm and gvr4.or. you might be able to use this flywheel with the adapter plate. the starion and dsm share the same bolt pattern for the flywheel. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/inde ... opic=74767
just a thought.
just a thought.
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
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89coltgt
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Bill, according to Neal racing trans, the converter is supoosed to have .120" to .100" of play, so if you have this set at .125", we should be good as it can be shimmed slightly to take up the slack if need be. The extra .005" probably isn't a big deal for 95% of guys anyway.
http://www.nealtrans.com/techinfo.html#clearance
http://www.nealtrans.com/techinfo.html#clearance
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Bill Hincher
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Bill Hincher
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hello, I took a short break to get my outdoor work done before the winter storms come in, but, the adaptor plate will not accept both patterns drilled into it because the lower bolt holes are spaced too close to each other, it would have an oblong hole.
And yes I have started to remake the adpator plate , I used the time I have been away to aquire some new tooling to help me do a better job on the coupler......sooooooooooooo I am back on the GM adaptor, I will be posting pic's
And yes I have started to remake the adpator plate , I used the time I have been away to aquire some new tooling to help me do a better job on the coupler......sooooooooooooo I am back on the GM adaptor, I will be posting pic's
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89coltgt
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Bill, are you making two seperate plates for the wide and narrow block now or just going with the narrow blocks?
Btw, anyone know what the difference is between the two piece and one piece rear main seal flexplates? I see some places sell just a 153 tooth flexplate and other have them seperated by the type of rear main seal.
Btw, anyone know what the difference is between the two piece and one piece rear main seal flexplates? I see some places sell just a 153 tooth flexplate and other have them seperated by the type of rear main seal.
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Bill Hincher
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the plate will share one design, the difference will be in how its drilled, I been bouncing around about the thickness, also i tried some new ideas on the starter location.
I finally settled on the starter location and thickness is still up to the coupler I want to use, the problem I am wrestling with is the crankshaft bolts.
the original M/T crankshaft bolts have a bigger head for more clamping force but they are designed to work with a flywheel 10mm thick, the auto trans bolts are designed to work with a flywheel 3mm thick, If I swap the auto trans bolts for the M/T bolts I will gain in strength but the fingers i used to locate the center of the torque converter will be much thinner, however the thicker coupler will force the trans to be mounted an extra 1/4 back with the adaptor plate
so i been bouncing back and forth









I finally settled on the starter location and thickness is still up to the coupler I want to use, the problem I am wrestling with is the crankshaft bolts.
the original M/T crankshaft bolts have a bigger head for more clamping force but they are designed to work with a flywheel 10mm thick, the auto trans bolts are designed to work with a flywheel 3mm thick, If I swap the auto trans bolts for the M/T bolts I will gain in strength but the fingers i used to locate the center of the torque converter will be much thinner, however the thicker coupler will force the trans to be mounted an extra 1/4 back with the adaptor plate
so i been bouncing back and forth









Last edited by Bill Hincher on Thu May 30, 2013 3:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
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jeffball610
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So by using the M/T flywheel bolts you gain both strength and will not need the extra 1/4" set back? Sounds like a win win to me. I see the need to have a thick mount for the torque converter, but where is the benefit in that? Will it be that much stronger? What has Buschur done with his mounting?
I think you're definitely on the right track. The only advice I have is to keep in mind that the people using this option will likely be running really high HP engines. So the parts should be able to handle that power. I know you've considered this, but I don't want you to forget. Sometimes I get close minded when working on projects and forget simple things like this.
I think you're definitely on the right track. The only advice I have is to keep in mind that the people using this option will likely be running really high HP engines. So the parts should be able to handle that power. I know you've considered this, but I don't want you to forget. Sometimes I get close minded when working on projects and forget simple things like this.
Do it in a Datsun!
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
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Bill Hincher
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89coltgt
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Will there be an issue ith the coupler being another 1/4" thicker Bill? I think the 3/4" adapter plate will be fine as long as everything is lined up and centered, plus the inside of the plate can be lightened up by milling out some of the extra material that is not necessary for strength. Also, with this thicker plate, you would have more thread depth to work with if you wanted to add some lower braces like the bellhousings have.
I am one of those guys that jeffball speaks of, or at least I am planning to make a good amount of power with a moderate stall/transbrake.
I guess my question would be, if you go with the 3/4" plate, will that allow you to use the manual bolts and give you a nice thickness for the converter "fingers"?
I am one of those guys that jeffball speaks of, or at least I am planning to make a good amount of power with a moderate stall/transbrake.
I guess my question would be, if you go with the 3/4" plate, will that allow you to use the manual bolts and give you a nice thickness for the converter "fingers"?
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Bill Hincher
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I am just playing with ideas for the final pattern

this is all cut to 2% oversize for the shrink that will take place during casting


this is all cut to 2% oversize for the shrink that will take place during casting

Last edited by Bill Hincher on Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bill Hincher
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Bill Hincher
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I dont understand?DJpowerHaus wrote:how hard would it be to make a wide and narrow plate if you just clocked the bolt pattern rather than just overlaying them?
this is a pattern being built to be one piece, it will be about 1 1/8 inch total width, the original plates I built were 3/4 wide. I am extending the block mating surface so they can be cut either 1 inch or 3/4 but the plate will have to be drilled upon request to wide block or narrow block. the adavntage being , that I can get a very square , flat surface for engine to trans surface, as opposed to two plates back to back, that can be hard to get square
when I think of clocking the bolt pattern, I think of the angle position of the engine, as in rotating the engine one way or another
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DJpowerHaus
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I'd see it as clocking the transmission rather than the engine since the transmission crossmember will need to be fabricated anyways.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Bill Hincher
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77amc
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John, SO, how much does the engine stick up and why would it be at any angle?
I really liked the flipped exhaust mani but know that it would raise the turbo and if this raises even more, then I may have to stay with a stock turbo housing.
I think that more peeps would like the narrow version just because there are tons more fwd 4g's out there..
E
I really liked the flipped exhaust mani but know that it would raise the turbo and if this raises even more, then I may have to stay with a stock turbo housing.
I think that more peeps would like the narrow version just because there are tons more fwd 4g's out there..
E
Hello. New to the forum. Glad to see I'm not the only one looking to put a chevy trans behind a mitsubishi. Your adapter looks great nice work. Was wondering what you currently charge for these? I'm lookin to put together a 300 or so hp 4G63 narrow block with a turbo350 behind it. Looking to buy an adapter setup round the middle of January. Thanks!
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Bill Hincher
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this is the problem I have been working on for the GM adaptors, the flywheel bolt on the right is an Auto trans flywheel bolt, its storter than the manual trans flywheel bolt and has a smaller shoulder surface under the bolt head

the original auto trans flex plate was 3 mm thick, my first couplers were 7 mm thick under the bolt head


I keep working out details in the new plate, I want it strong but light




This is my new coupler , it has 10 mm thick flywheel bolt landings and uses the Manual trans bolts

The flywheel fits okay but the starter depth will need adjustment

My first plate were 3/4 inch thick, the new plate will be closer to 1 inch

I will have the new adaptors in the casting shop this weekend ( just after Christmas ) then I gotta finish the t 56

the original auto trans flex plate was 3 mm thick, my first couplers were 7 mm thick under the bolt head


I keep working out details in the new plate, I want it strong but light




This is my new coupler , it has 10 mm thick flywheel bolt landings and uses the Manual trans bolts

The flywheel fits okay but the starter depth will need adjustment

My first plate were 3/4 inch thick, the new plate will be closer to 1 inch

I will have the new adaptors in the casting shop this weekend ( just after Christmas ) then I gotta finish the t 56
Last edited by Bill Hincher on Thu May 30, 2013 3:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Bill Hincher
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I went to the steel treatment plant today ( they do all of Hydromatic's stuff here) and got a cost on the harding proscess he figures about $20.00 per copy
they said I could have this material ( 4140) hardened to any 'brill' number required
I have to rethink the coupler to allow for .003 thousands shrinkage, so all the spec's have to be changed
they thought about ' 50 brill'
they said I could have this material ( 4140) hardened to any 'brill' number required
I have to rethink the coupler to allow for .003 thousands shrinkage, so all the spec's have to be changed
they thought about ' 50 brill'
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Bill Hincher
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I went to the steel treatment plant today ( they do all of Hydromatic's stuff here) and got a cost on the harding proscess he figures about $20.00 per copy
they said I could have this material ( 4140) hardened to any 'brill' number required
I have to rethink the coupler to allow for .003 thousands shrinkage, so all the spec's have to be changed
they thought about ' 50 brill'
they said I could have this material ( 4140) hardened to any 'brill' number required
I have to rethink the coupler to allow for .003 thousands shrinkage, so all the spec's have to be changed
they thought about ' 50 brill'
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Bill Hincher
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hschwartz3
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Hey that's my name. Use to go by Herbie when I was younger. No relation to the story though.
Bill, are these adapters for sale or are they still under production. I haven't picked up a powerglide yet but I plan on using one of these when I get to that point. Nice work by the way.
Herb
Bill, are these adapters for sale or are they still under production. I haven't picked up a powerglide yet but I plan on using one of these when I get to that point. Nice work by the way.
Herb
1987 Mitsubishi Starion (Daily Driver)
1987 Chrysler Conquest (parts car)
1987 Chrysler Conquest (parts car)
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Bill Hincher
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I got the one piece GM adaptors worked out












Last edited by Bill Hincher on Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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