stripped head bolts

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:25 am

I had this happen once a long time ago when I pulled my 1st 4g63 apart. You may want to try ro drill out the head of the bolt. Be sure to use a good set of bits.

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:40 am

oldcolt75 wrote:i had thought of that but i was concernd about moving the wrong way and catching the cam or something stupid like that

You can always remove parts that are in the way that may become damaged

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:37 am

I've also seen this happen. We had to torch out the head of the bolt because it was so bad. Once you relieve the pressure from the head, the rest usually just comes right out.

I would also suggest getting all the parts off the head that are in the way. Unless you don't care about that head either.

Just remember when removing the stock head bolts in the future, use the proper size allen head socket (not wrench) and the shortest extension you need to reach them. Use a long breaker bar and keep one hand on near the head bolt to make sure the socket stays where it should.

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 12:23 pm

We had to use a torch on the heads of the bolts as well, but the head was already damaged. This was after trying to weld the allen socket to the bolt so I couldn't really drill the center out well enough.

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 12:43 pm

One thing that I've had pretty good luck with is to try and tighten said bolt/nut slightly (after soaking with a lube) wait just a sed or two maybe again and THEN try to loosen it.
This is especially good when the nut/bolt looks like it had been beat up previously going CCW.
You can usually feel it give a little or breaking loose and then, loosening will let it move. Even if it moves slightly, soak it again, wait a little, and start over. Mya take a few times but I've had more that come out than break after that.

I've even had bolts that were frozen in casting but not near a jacket or something that I drilled an 1/8" hole at an angle to threading/bolt and seep in some lube like Kroyl or Blaster..

Just my .02

E

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 1:22 am

Is what you're working on worth saving? These heads are everywhere and hardly worth wasting your time on one.

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 1:18 am

Before you put your allen or t-30 socket into the bolt, dip the head of the socket into valve lapping compound-- this will give it alittle more traction. If you are gonna hammer in anything oversized-- I would strongly recomend hammering in a T-30 (or w/e size is required) into the allen head first. I find that these bits offer more surface area.

I would then heat up the head around the bolt. Then, right before trying to loosen the bolt, spray the bolt with a penatrating lube can that has a straw. This way you get as little on the head as possible. I've found that this will normally expand the hole (heat) and shrink the bolt (cold penatrating lube) ever so lightly that it in many cases is just enough to help you loosen the bolt. Also, before you put your allen or t-30 socket into the bolt, dip the head of the socket into lapping compound-- this will give it alittle more traction.

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 4:47 pm

Soooo, What did it take?

turbostellar · Post by **turbostellar** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 7:30 pm

congrats on winning the battle

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 8:30 pm

Use ARP head studs from this point on. Also, go ahead and get a Mitsubishi Multi-Layer Head Gasket. Those are 2 upgrades that can be reused if you ever need to take the head off again.

The stock head gasket is not re-useable and the head bolts can stretch. It will cost you $200 now, but will save you later. Also, they are great upgrades for increased boost. We all love more boost.

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:09 am

jeffball610 wrote:Use ARP head studs from this point on. Also, go ahead and get a Mitsubishi Multi-Layer Head Gasket. Those are 2 upgrades that can be reused if you ever need to take the head off again.

The stock head gasket is not re-useable and the head bolts can stretch. It will cost you $200 now, but will save you later. Also, they are great upgrades for increased boost. We all love more boost.

Reuseable head gasket?? Seriously???

Jed118 · Post by **Jed118** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:16 pm

That same procedure was taken by me: Smash a bigger bit, use an electric impact gun... fail? Grind headbolt down, remove head, grind studs down on sides, heat, remove with vice grips.

Not very fun, but on a rare 4G32 SOHC head (well, rare now anyways), you gotta do what you gotta do!

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:53 pm

A quick internet search showed this column.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... skets.aspx
Here is a quick excerpt from that article.

"As for reusability, MLS gasket suppliers say MLS gaskets should not be reused because the embossing may not fully recover once the gasket has been through a thermal cycle. But as long as the gasket appears to be in good condition when it is removed, many racers find they can reuse MLS gaskets with no problems. And if the surface coating has a damaged spot or two, it can often be repaired with a light coating of RTV silicone."

I just use Loctite copper spray to help it seal again. I also has the advantage of adding some surface thickness and compression to the gasket.[/url]

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:52 pm

I searched on the net and found that after I made my post, thanks for the info. I still don't think I'll ever reuse a head gasket.. I do this for a living-- I only get paid to replace things once-- after that it's on me. I take that same thinking when working on my own stuff.