D50 trans debate...
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
D50 trans debate...
Well, I tried to blow one of these things up. I made some shake down passes at a recent race and put down a couple of 11.8's with 1.7 and 1.8 60 foots. I then decided that I could leave just a bit harder with more boost and tried a 7000+ launch. Low and behold it spit out the U joint and not the trans. I will try a new U joint as soon as possible.
KILL
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screemin eagle
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carguyf545
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if you abuse a tranny it will break...
i have gone through 4 trannys in my daily driven escort. i averaged one tranny every 9 months. the differental always came apart, (besides the one that blew the syncrows off second, then drove 4 months with no syncrows in second untill the diff gave out. as soon as i started to drive like a white man, my tranny has lasted. wow..... how does that work??????
i have gone through 4 trannys in my daily driven escort. i averaged one tranny every 9 months. the differental always came apart, (besides the one that blew the syncrows off second, then drove 4 months with no syncrows in second untill the diff gave out. as soon as i started to drive like a white man, my tranny has lasted. wow..... how does that work??????

what a nice port job, probally hurt it more than i helped it.
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DJpowerHaus
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flatblackdime
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I pulled my tailshaft housing last weekend and did some measuring, double checked against the parts listing for those bearings, no difference between 2L mighty max's and any year of starion.screemin eagle wrote:im thinking maybe the reason DJ was having the issues is becuase the race on the tailshaft bearing might not have been correct. seems the guys who leave the units alone have a better experience than the guys who swap the tail shaft housings.
I have a feeling that it simply has to do with age/ history of the tranny (truck tranny more than likely saw a ton of abuse/ lack of maintenance). I bet that the failures seen were more likely due to tranny case flex. thats a pretty big hole in the bottom of the case after all. Looking at the gears they didn't seem to be grossly undersized either, pretty close to the gears in my 240sx.
I'll post my results as I have some. Anyone got a spare starion tailhousing they want to get rid of?
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DJpowerHaus
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I swapped the Starion "waffle" transmission cover along with my tail housing so I doubt transmission case flex was an issue in my case (no more so than with the SQ box).

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
good to see the 4g63 d50s are putting up with a decent amount of power though
all my experience with them is only hearsay as i havent actually run mine yet, but the more good storys i here of people putting some decent power through them the better it makes me feel
have heard reports of a guy in australia with a 350hp sigma running a d50
and another 2 people here in new zealand running them both around the 200kw mark with no issues
all my experience with them is only hearsay as i havent actually run mine yet, but the more good storys i here of people putting some decent power through them the better it makes me feel
have heard reports of a guy in australia with a 350hp sigma running a d50
and another 2 people here in new zealand running them both around the 200kw mark with no issues
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screemin eagle
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yes but just becuase they have the same part #'s doesnt mean they are the exact same spec. different batches of parts are going to have different tolerences hence the need for shims. you would have to remove the race in the tail shaft and mic the shim on both to see if they are the same.flatblackdime wrote:I pulled my tailshaft housing last weekend and did some measuring, double checked against the parts listing for those bearings, no difference between 2L mighty max's and any year of starion.screemin eagle wrote:im thinking maybe the reason DJ was having the issues is becuase the race on the tailshaft bearing might not have been correct. seems the guys who leave the units alone have a better experience than the guys who swap the tail shaft housings.
I have a feeling that it simply has to do with age/ history of the tranny (truck tranny more than likely saw a ton of abuse/ lack of maintenance). I bet that the failures seen were more likely due to tranny case flex. thats a pretty big hole in the bottom of the case after all. Looking at the gears they didn't seem to be grossly undersized either, pretty close to the gears in my 240sx.
I'll post my results as I have some. Anyone got a spare starion tailhousing they want to get rid of?
hey dj could maybe the problem you were having with the d50 unit be due to the hole for the pilot bearing not being on center? i could see that putting uneven load on the input shaft bearings cuasing them to fail as well. or maybe you just row through gears like a drifting mad man.
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
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flatblackdime
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While randomly searching last night came up with this, thought it might be extremely useful to those of us using d50 transmissions
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/v/dsg/tech/starion/
Also chatted with a guy at PIR over the weekend who's done a lot of 24hr races in starions. His thoughts were that a KM-132 would be fine and that the first thing to go would be syncros, namely 3rd. His other suggestion was to use the worst transmission fluid possible.
Still looking to pickup a starion tranny to swap the tailhousing over so i can get some real results to post up here.
-Justin
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/v/dsg/tech/starion/
Also chatted with a guy at PIR over the weekend who's done a lot of 24hr races in starions. His thoughts were that a KM-132 would be fine and that the first thing to go would be syncros, namely 3rd. His other suggestion was to use the worst transmission fluid possible.
Still looking to pickup a starion tranny to swap the tailhousing over so i can get some real results to post up here.
-Justin
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Robert Venable
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flatblackdime
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screemin eagle
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Bill Hincher
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syncro's in a trans are a brake, they slow the spinning gear down so the sleeve can engage the gear without grinding, so if you use oil that is thin the sycro will grip the back of the gear shoulder better and slow it down faster, the best way to build a trans is to hand lap the syncros to the back of the gear with valve lap compound, it make the gear slow very fast when the selector pushes on it and they shift as smooth as silk
Bringing back the dead here...flatblackdime wrote:While randomly searching last night came up with this, thought it might be extremely useful to those of us using d50 transmissions
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/v/dsg/tech/starion/
Also chatted with a guy at PIR over the weekend who's done a lot of 24hr races in starions. His thoughts were that a KM-132 would be fine and that the first thing to go would be syncros, namely 3rd. His other suggestion was to use the worst transmission fluid possible.
Still looking to pickup a starion tranny to swap the tailhousing over so i can get some real results to post up here.
-Justin
Where is the tech article on this? Going to call them in the am I think
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screemin eagle
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dont waste your time on the d-50 tranny i broke min in 800 miles the clutch was a bitch to adjust and never really worked correctly.
but if you want to do it ill sell you the parts to get you started .
i have the drive shaft extended 2" and the willwood pull slave
i also have a tranny but it makes a knocking noise
but if you want to do it ill sell you the parts to get you started .
i have the drive shaft extended 2" and the willwood pull slave
i also have a tranny but it makes a knocking noise
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
