http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=715
if i were to move the engine forward, based on 4g63migghtymax's set up, this would also move the transmission forward.
what would i need to do for the propeller shaft?
which would be better of these two options:
1) cut the stock prop shaft, add/weld additional shafting material, and weld the yokes back?
2) get a longer prop shaft, cut it to the required length and weld the yoke back?
of course, i would need to have it balanced with either of these two options
any advice would be appreciated
thanks
moving engine/tranny forward
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
moving engine/tranny forward
Last edited by AllanL on Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bill Hincher
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just build your own shaft, I have seen a lot of work go into the details of the driveshaft and heard all the crap about balance and stuff, but in the end, I have never had any problems with building my own and not balancing them
Use DLM steel ( drawn over mandrel steel) it is seamless. I figure if it works , fine, if it is way out of balance, then its a good model to take to the drive line place and have them build one just like it only balanced
Use DLM steel ( drawn over mandrel steel) it is seamless. I figure if it works , fine, if it is way out of balance, then its a good model to take to the drive line place and have them build one just like it only balanced
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jeffball610
- Too Much Time on His Hands
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- Location: Las Vegas, NV
We might be getting a little off topic, but I think driveshafts are a good discussion. So what wall thickness tubing should we use? I would guess that 3" tubing should be about the right size for any power level. I can't imagine it's that hard to weld on some flanges to a tube and make it pretty straight. If you're concerned with driveline vibration like I am, I suppose you could take it in to be balanced. I would guess any driveline shop could do this for a small fee. Also, if you're reusing stock pieces, it will definitely save you some cash. Also, some OEM stuff is pretty strong and can handle the power most of us are making.
Do it in a Datsun!
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
You can DIY balance too! If you detect vibrations whilst driving, you can attempt to balance it in the following fashion:
-Prop the car up on axle stands (at the axle)
-have a friend start the car and put it into gear (1st or "D") and let the car accelerate on it's own
-while underneath, look at the shaft (make sure, obviously, the car is properly secured and fumes vented)
-if you see visible distortions, bring a chalk very carefully (maybe attach the chalk to something stiff and straight) to the driveshaft and it will "mark" the oblong deviation
-Stop the car. Obtain a hose clamp thick enough to encompass the shaft, positioning the screw-clamp assembly 180 degrees opposite the chalk mark. Depending on the deviation, you may have to double-up.
-Run the car again, bring the chalk close to the shaft (try a different color chalk too)
-if the chalk marks an angle between the old mark and the "weight", bisect the angle. If you have two "weights", you can take an average by trisecting, or moving one weight slightly to the other side of the radius and again, taking an "average" (Kind of by making a "Y" split amongst the weigths)
-When you're all done, tighten up the clamps so they do not move around, exacerbating the problem
I actually did this when my driveshaft decided, to hell with your axle, and slipped out of the car and dragged along the highway! I was going about 80, I knew something was wrong with the driveline as it was making rumbling noises when there was load on the engine... I figured I blew the carrier, but was on my way back from an exam (no chance in stopping the car ON THE WAY to the exam!) thinking about where I'm gonna get a new axle from when it departed from the car!
No one hit the driveshaft, miraculously it slid in a straight line and rolled only near the end when it's trajectory was changed by the dirt in the shoulder. I pulled over, having little choice in continung, collected the driveshaft and had the car towed home. The culprit: I failed to put locknuts on the companion flange! The screws worked themselves loose and detachment occured. The flange on the shaft was a little scoured and ground, and the shaft itself experienced lots of scratching and the weight was torn off, but it was not bent (naked eye). I was able to cancel vibrations using that exact method described: It had worked for 2 more years at which point I threw the car out (it was DONE in every way)
Try it, it worked VERY well for me! Another tip - mark the shaft to the companion flange on the axle - Mine can go on two ways, often if put on 180 it will vibrate more. When you extend yours, try flipping it first if the vibrations are noticeable.
-Prop the car up on axle stands (at the axle)
-have a friend start the car and put it into gear (1st or "D") and let the car accelerate on it's own
-while underneath, look at the shaft (make sure, obviously, the car is properly secured and fumes vented)
-if you see visible distortions, bring a chalk very carefully (maybe attach the chalk to something stiff and straight) to the driveshaft and it will "mark" the oblong deviation
-Stop the car. Obtain a hose clamp thick enough to encompass the shaft, positioning the screw-clamp assembly 180 degrees opposite the chalk mark. Depending on the deviation, you may have to double-up.
-Run the car again, bring the chalk close to the shaft (try a different color chalk too)
-if the chalk marks an angle between the old mark and the "weight", bisect the angle. If you have two "weights", you can take an average by trisecting, or moving one weight slightly to the other side of the radius and again, taking an "average" (Kind of by making a "Y" split amongst the weigths)
-When you're all done, tighten up the clamps so they do not move around, exacerbating the problem
I actually did this when my driveshaft decided, to hell with your axle, and slipped out of the car and dragged along the highway! I was going about 80, I knew something was wrong with the driveline as it was making rumbling noises when there was load on the engine... I figured I blew the carrier, but was on my way back from an exam (no chance in stopping the car ON THE WAY to the exam!) thinking about where I'm gonna get a new axle from when it departed from the car!
No one hit the driveshaft, miraculously it slid in a straight line and rolled only near the end when it's trajectory was changed by the dirt in the shoulder. I pulled over, having little choice in continung, collected the driveshaft and had the car towed home. The culprit: I failed to put locknuts on the companion flange! The screws worked themselves loose and detachment occured. The flange on the shaft was a little scoured and ground, and the shaft itself experienced lots of scratching and the weight was torn off, but it was not bent (naked eye). I was able to cancel vibrations using that exact method described: It had worked for 2 more years at which point I threw the car out (it was DONE in every way)
Try it, it worked VERY well for me! Another tip - mark the shaft to the companion flange on the axle - Mine can go on two ways, often if put on 180 it will vibrate more. When you extend yours, try flipping it first if the vibrations are noticeable.