Well, as some of you know, my car has had a shifting issue from day one. It all but locks you out after 4k rpm, which is not going to work well with a turbo set up that is at full song well past 5k. Initially on the Twins, the car made 567whp on mild boost. Great, but useless since I could not shift the car.
I tried a different clutch, no change. Different flywheel, no change, different trannys, no change, new Pilot bearing, no change. The Input shaft was smoth on the pilot bearing. I was stumped
Before my thrash to get the car shootout ready-I had an idea. IF there was an lalignment issue, I could runt he car sans pilot bearing as a quick way to check. I was otu of options, so I did. Low and behold- it shifts SIGNIFICANTLY better without it. Now, I cant power shift he car, btu I can slow shift it at higher RPM's without an issue. This tells me there is an alignment issue.
I have not though of a cheap solution, since he car works well as is. I think I may just leave a small turbo on the car, and build another project to quench my big power, big trap speed needs.
Just FYI, since it seems a lot of people want to try this swap out.
Wideblock-RX-7 shifting issues
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
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jeffball610
- Too Much Time on His Hands
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So what would cause this slight alignment issue? I would guess that is has more to do with the bellhousing area than anything. The bellhousing should hold it true to the block. Is there a "spacer" plate between the block and tranny? What about the alignment dowl pins? I'm sure the pilot bearing is not a critical part, but if the transmission is out of alignment, it could cause other issues down the road.
Since you swapped out transmissions and flywheels already, that helps to trouble shoot it some and leaves the bellhousing or engine block area that are the likely trouble areas.
Since you swapped out transmissions and flywheels already, that helps to trouble shoot it some and leaves the bellhousing or engine block area that are the likely trouble areas.
Do it in a Datsun!
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
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DJpowerHaus
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I am using a B2600 bellhousing with an RX7 (Series 5) transmission and it shifts fine under full power (340hp) at any and all RPMs I've driven it at. Full power shifts at 8000rpm even. Not sure what your problem is. Sure its not a problem internal to the transmission?

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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coltboostin
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77amc
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Now I'm no pro but what if the driveshaft is too long and jamming things up? Like ya said, 3 tranny's cant all be bad, and the pilot bushing removal made things better.. Unless the trannys were all disasembled and a gear or more was installed backward or a wavy shim or..?
Or if the rear diff was moved during the build up..?
Just my .02
E
Or if the rear diff was moved during the build up..?
Just my .02
E
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coltboostin
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The tranny is still int he stock location, and uses the sock mount. the rear end was not moved at all.77amc wrote:Now I'm no pro but what if the driveshaft is too long and jamming things up? Like ya said, 3 tranny's cant all be bad, and the pilot bushing removal made things better.. Unless the trannys were all disasembled and a gear or more was installed backward or a wavy shim or..?
Or if the rear diff was moved during the build up..?
Just my .02
E
I have gone through an ACT 2100, 2600, and now this POS South bend Clutch. removing the pilot bearing is the only thing that has helped thus far.
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coltboostin
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