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92 Max Build.......One Day.

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:23 pm
by Ears93
Alright. Noob here. So far this forum has given me all sorts of info that I never would have thought was possible and look forward to the future help and whatever help I can give. I've got a 92 Mighty Max bone stock except for the 2" blocks in the rear and the Toyota Sequoia wheels with the 275/40R17s wrapped around them which I think looks very good and is very unique. I will get pics up as soon as I can.

I have read a lot here and I have gathered that this is what I want to do at the moment:
First off, it is very low budget. I look for deals everywhere when I do have the funds. I don't want to drop a ton of money in this truck. If it gets to the point I'll just drop it alltogether.

I basically just want the simplest setup up possible that may max out at 300hp. Just so I can have a little fun.

I would like to keep the mighty max tranny so I will be going with the 4G64 wideblock with the wieseco pistons and the 4G63 head. Again, I don't plan on a lot so I won't go to crazy with the bottom end. I would also like to not touch the firewall.

Thats about as far as I have got. Not sure what intake to go with? What turbo? fuel management, etc.?
What I am wondering right now is, what turbos are available and their differences? Is there an engine management system that is more of a plug and play setup?

That's all I can think of off the top of my head right now.
I look forward to everyone's thoughts, opinions, and help.

Thanks,
Nick

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:20 pm
by Mad Menace
ANY pnp EMS you order will require the factory CAS in the back of the head OR the far more complicated 2g crank and cam sensor. and would require either firewall mods or front engine mods to accomodate the 2g sensors... however the Megasquirt line can do whatever you need with whatever sensor you can manage to mount... like my setup
4g64 DOHC turbo in 93 Mighty max, it had GM coolant and air temp sensors, ford Crank pulley and trigger wheel, thermo king VR pick up sensor, Ford Zetec coils, saturn alternator, and 2g cam sensor... Mainly all done cause i wanted to leave the firewall alone too...

But as for tunability its all on you with a megasquirt to set it u, tune it and trust it...

I however LOVE the new MS3 and the fully sequential modes and extras it offers like water/meth injection, NOS, boost control and the list goes on and on and on

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:02 pm
by Ears93
What are the odds of me leaving the power steering and the factory AC compressor hooked up? I still have R-12 in this thing, its cold as hell in the summer, and would love to keep it. Unless it goes out between now and the time I do everything.

Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 11:16 am
by Mad Menace
actually you should be able to keep that stock AC setup and everything... the engines are essentially identical except for the taller/wider cylinder bores on the 4g64

Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 3:39 pm
by Ears93
Here are some pics.

It's been a while since I posted pics so be patient with me.

This is the day after I got it.
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The day I put the wheels on and lowered it.
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And a few to try to give you an idea of how wide the tires are. They onlyrub a little when you turn all the way to the locks.
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Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 4:03 pm
by Ears93
Wow! This forum really makes my piece look good.

Menace, Thanks for the info. I think I have read your entire build so far. Seems that you have had some pretty interesting issues but it's good to see you got it running.

So if I keep the 4g64, will I have to make any custom brackets for the accessories?

Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:29 am
by Mad Menace
Nope, you should be able to bolt things right up without issues.

Boy do I ever have her running!!! I dyno'd with a bad tune at 313 BHP and like 330 Ft. Lb. Tq or something like that... and I was cutting out at 10 psi boost during the test... with the new MS3 I got on here its a smoking fast truck, and light as all hell... cant hardly beat it.

I love smoking the kids in their v6 or v8 camaros mustangs and dodges of all sorts, cause we got the weight advantage and a better HP to weight ratio...
Plus you can drift on dry asphalt without even trying... and for the record I am running the stock rear end and tranny... till something breaks anyway

Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:05 pm
by capev86
i hear you can get a 3.55 or a 3.308 rear gear from the 3000gt vr4 (awd) if you find yourself wanting a softer final drive for better highway driving (and to keep it on the road when that 2.4 puts down all that low end torque).

i think your truck is really sharp looking appearance wise, although i would have skipped the blocks in the rear. i think the rake looks sportier and i actually plan to use my truck to haul/tow stuff. but overall, a really clean looking sleeper!!!

Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 10:36 pm
by Ears93
I've been doing a lot of reading the past few days and want to make sure I have a few things straight. 1g=90-95/96 and 2g=96/97-99? I'm thinking I want a 2g head. Can I use a 2g harness or do I have to use the 1g harness? Is it possible to use the computer from the harness donor car if I'm not going to have any mods? I've got the general idea, just want to make sure I make the right choices.
Now to go back and start rereading Mad Menace's build thread.

Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 6:16 pm
by Ears93
capev86 wrote:i hear you can get a 3.55 or a 3.308 rear gear from the 3000gt vr4 (awd) if you find yourself wanting a softer final drive for better highway driving (and to keep it on the road when that 2.4 puts down all that low end torque).

i think your truck is really sharp looking appearance wise, although i would have skipped the blocks in the rear. i think the rake looks sportier and i actually plan to use my truck to haul/tow stuff. but overall, a really clean looking sleeper!!!
HAHAHAHA!!! TRUST ME!!! The pictures do my truck a lot of justice.

I read through Menace's thread the other night and decided that I will be beating the firewall in to get the CAS on the head. Does anybody know how far the firewall needs to move?

Went to the local yard today to get a LSD only to find out that the donor truck was already gone. :evil: Anyone know where I can find the center section for around $80?

Can anyone tell me if I absolutley have to run megasquirt or DSMLink to make the 4g63t head work in my truck? Can I use a 1g or 2g computer or harness?

Nick

Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:38 pm
by 77amc
Wow, how'd ya get your avatar sooo large?

For parts in your area try: carparts.com, Craigslist

E

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 12:29 am
by Ears93
77amc wrote:Wow, how'd ya get your avatar sooo large?

For parts in your area try: carparts.com, Craigslist

E
Not sure how the avatar got so big. I hope I don't piss anybody off by taking up room on a page.

Been checking those places. Would like to find parts at the local pull-a-part since everything is soooo cheap. There were 3 different truck the last time I went. Finally got a little spare cash to go yank the LSD yesterday and they were all gone. I hope another 4WD comes in soon.

Just to clarify. The 4WD Mighty Maxs and Monteros were the only one with the LSD, correct?

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:04 pm
by Mxtwo50r
[quote="Ears93"]
Not sure how the avatar got so big. I hope I don't piss anybody off by taking up room on a page.
[/quote]

Its annoying as hell, and not only does it just mess up your thread, it messes up everyone's thread you post in. Just saying.

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 12:25 am
by Ears93
Mxtwo50r wrote:
Ears93 wrote: Not sure how the avatar got so big. I hope I don't piss anybody off by taking up room on a page.
Its annoying as hell, and not only does it just mess up your thread, it messes up everyone's thread you post in. Just saying.
Sorry bout that. I took it off.

Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:18 pm
by boise-nic
Wow, I found my twin! Mine looks almost the same: Image

I have been looking all over the internet for some wide wheels for mine. It's tough to find anything because of our 6 lug bolt pattern. I think those wheels look great. How much do they stick out of the wheel wheel? I have crappy 225 tires with an LSD from a 4x4 mm and it still spins through 2nd gear with a 16g at 17psi. If I could hookup in 1st and 2nd...oh man!

Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:18 pm
by boise-nic
Looking into those sequoia wheels...it says they only 7.5" wide http://www.phenixwheels-store.com/servl ... l?no=33313

I guess the math works out to 1.65" flaired out on each side between the rim and the outside of the tire which really isn't too bad. I was thinking a 275 wide tire on a 7.5" rim would look pretty strange but seems like you pulled it off ok.

Can I ask where you got your rims at? Craigslist?

Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:22 pm
by Ears93
boise-nic wrote:Looking into those sequoia wheels...it says they only 7.5" wide http://www.phenixwheels-store.com/servl ... l?no=33313

I guess the math works out to 1.65" flaired out on each side between the rim and the outside of the tire which really isn't too bad. I was thinking a 275 wide tire on a 7.5" rim would look pretty strange but seems like you pulled it off ok.

Can I ask where you got your rims at? Craigslist?

Yeah, They barely stick out. But, I like the way it looks and I think it has the perfect stance.

As for putting the tires on the wheels, well that took a while. They were a really tight fit. Luckily I have a good friend that has a shop with a real nice tire machine with a lot of different arms which we needed to get them on. If I had to take it to someone who didn't know me they prolly would laughed at me and sent me down the road.

I put a set of black leather seats out of a 00 Acura RSX in today that I picked up for $50...After I got the old mounts and rivets off the seat, the rear bolted right in to the holes that were already there. Now I just have to fabricate some small L shaped brackets to weld to the front of the seat tracks and bolt them down. I also found out that the seat belt buckle bolts on the side of the acura seats are the same as the buckle bolts that bolt to the floor. I will have to use my original buckles mounted to the floor at the moment. I will keep my eye open for some DSM buckles that I can bolt to the side of the seat to make it look a lot cleaner.

Now to get my LSD....That would really be nice right now. I won't have the turbo motor for a while but the LSD will make things really fun for the price.

Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 3:09 pm
by DJpowerHaus
Mad Menace wrote:actually you should be able to keep that stock AC setup and everything... the engines are essentially identical except for the taller/wider cylinder bores on the 4g64
I don't believe this is true. The brackets differ between the SOHC and DOHC setups significantly enough that you can't use the truck A/C and power steering. I remember running into this problem on the Conquest I built for Busdriver (Craig) back in 2008. He wanted to keep the A/C and power steering, and we do intend to implement it one day, but for now we have just the DSM A/C compressor hooked up with all the DSM brackets and tensioners and we used a non-power steering box for the short term (last 2 years LOL).

Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:13 am
by boise-nic
I know the power steering pump locations are the same. I never had to touch the PS system, just bolted the mm pump to the new bracket. I never liked the stock alternator location. It had a hard life getting either fried from the exhaust or dripped on by a leaky PS pump. If you delete your A/C, you can move the alternator to its location which is on the cold side of the motor. I use to drop down in voltage when my old dsm got warm. Now, it stays at a consistant 14.1 volts.

Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 10:42 pm
by Ears93
DJpowerHaus wrote:
Mad Menace wrote:actually you should be able to keep that stock AC setup and everything... the engines are essentially identical except for the taller/wider cylinder bores on the 4g64
I don't believe this is true. The brackets differ between the SOHC and DOHC setups significantly enough that you can't use the truck A/C and power steering. I remember running into this problem on the Conquest I built for Busdriver (Craig) back in 2008. He wanted to keep the A/C and power steering, and we do intend to implement it one day, but for now we have just the DSM A/C compressor hooked up with all the DSM brackets and tensioners and we used a non-power steering box for the short term (last 2 years LOL).
So if I keep the 4g64 block, I will not be able to keep everything in the same locations? I could understand the ps pump since it has mounts on the head and I'm not sure how the 4g63 head is setup in that particular spot. All the other brackets are mount to the block though. Please explain if you can.

Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 10:53 pm
by Ears93
boise-nic wrote:Looking into those sequoia wheels...it says they only 7.5" wide http://www.phenixwheels-store.com/servl ... l?no=33313

I guess the math works out to 1.65" flaired out on each side between the rim and the outside of the tire which really isn't too bad. I was thinking a 275 wide tire on a 7.5" rim would look pretty strange but seems like you pulled it off ok.

Can I ask where you got your rims at? Craigslist?
Here are some more pics to give you an idea of the backspacing.

These also show my new headlights which don't exactly work since the black doesn't reflect the light....I'm gonna try an ebay bi-xenon kit I found for $60. If it doesn't work then, I will just get new housings. But I like these and nobody else has them.

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That little guy in the corner?? Don't worry bout that little guy.
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 4:38 am
by Ears93
boise-nic wrote: Can I ask where you got your rims at? Craigslist?
Oh yeah. I actually got them from a friend at work. Traded him a 5hp honda engine for all 4 and 1 hubcap. I refinished them because they looked pretty rough. Was well worth it though. I had the tires already and luckily have 2 more used ones. Hopefully I will find more used ones when all these get bald.

Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 3:58 pm
by Mad Menace
Lol, dude I have those same headlights with the xenon upgrade.
I also have color changing LED's in the "city light" hole and they look awesome with just the marker lights on, but I have gotten pulled over for them already too cause they were seen in the red state and that's illegal in my area to have any forward or under carriage lights of red, blue or green. but for some reason we are allowed aqua, amber, white or yellow without incident.

I'm sorta interested in those seats, what are they and where'd you find them?

Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:42 pm
by Ears93
Mad Menace wrote:Lol, dude I have those same headlights with the xenon upgrade.
I also have color changing LED's in the "city light" hole and they look awesome with just the marker lights on, but I have gotten pulled over for them already too cause they were seen in the red state and that's illegal in my area to have any forward or under carriage lights of red, blue or green. but for some reason we are allowed aqua, amber, white or yellow without incident.

I'm sorta interested in those seats, what are they and where'd you find them?
I sent the black housings back today to exchange for some chrome projector housings. Even with the HIDs they were dimmer than the OE sealed beams. We'll see what happens when my new ones come in.

I got the seats from a guy I work with. They are out of an 02 and up Acura RSX. Real comfortable to ride in and holds you in place unlike the factory "sport" bench. Uncomfortable as F*** to sleep in though.

Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:55 pm
by Ears93
Just started thinking about a 4g63t head for my 4g64 blockagain. A few questions I have though.

I plan on using the 1g setup with the CAS on the back of the head so I don't have to mess with a crank sensor like on the 2g. Ive read that its a little more difficult to do the 2g setup. PLEASE correct t me if I am wrong.
Are the g63t heads the only low compression heads or do the galants have low compression also?
I have more questions but these are the few that are on my mind at the moment.

Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 11:55 pm
by Ears93
Just started thinking about a 4g63t head for my 4g64 blockagain. A few questions I have though.

I plan on using the 1g setup with the CAS on the back of the head so I don't have to mess with a crank sensor like on the 2g. Ive read that its a little more difficult to do the 2g setup. PLEASE correct t me if I am wrong.
Are the g63t heads the only low compression heads or do the galants have low compression also?
I have more questions but these are the few that are on my mind at the moment.