Project Zero G Forums

Well from the research Ive done I have seen that alot of mustang swaps have been started and it seems that none of them ever get completed. So hopefully mine will be the first. This has been an on going project for me and the car has had many stages in its life, 5.0, 347 stroker, 2.3 turbo and no soon to be a 4g. I used to be a fwd colt guy but now this has taken my time up. I just finished hanging most of my from suspension and thought I would share some quick pics with you guys. So here it goes, the car is a 87 5.0 notch, southern car (everything underneath looks brand new fresh off the show room with the exception of the paint being very badly paint faded and baked off, but honestly I like it like that I think it adds character and will get the car over looked. The from suspension consists of UPR chromoly K-member, D&D lower control arms, tokico blues, modular mustang coil overs, maximum motorsports CC plates, motorsport manual steering rack, power stop cross drilled front rotors and 73mm SVO calipers.





Rear suspension (not installed yet but have all parts) is BBK lower control ares, UPR upper control arms, BBK subframe connectors, Maximum motorsports Battle boxes, lakewood lower tq box plates, MAC diff girdle, 3.73 gears, moser axles, North race car rear disc brackets, turbo coupe rear disc brake setup, and its all going to be rolling around on Bogart Fluted stars.

Thanks
Dave

I've always liked the fox bodies. It suprised me how light they really are. I always thought they were heavier. What transmission are you going to use? I think you should paint it a satin black...sort of a mad max look.

I am back an forth on the trans now, probally a trans brakes th350. Car weighs 2900lbs.. I was liking the satin black untill one of the local mustang guys has a satin black notch so that kinda burst that bubble.

motor mock up pics.. my 2.3 engine mounts lined up with one of the 4g bolt holes for the placement I wanted.. Thank fully this gives me a good jig to make my own.

Looks good. Have you checked the motor's position with the oil pan bolted on? On mine I had to push the motor a good deal foward to get the sump to clear the k-member. That was with the stocker though...

It hits the k-member.. I have to make a rear sump pan, which is kinda what I wanted anyway I am worried about oil slash under launching.. Right now I am just having a hard time trying to find an oil pan flange. I know they make them I have seen 2 forsale third party but am always too late. If anyone has any info on a company that I can buy the oil pan flange from I would really apprieciate it. THanks
Dave

I got the oil pan flange layout in my CNC program, what guage did you want? steel or aluminum?

What do you do about the oil pick up tube when doing the rear sump pan? I tossed around the idea of a rear sump pan as well but couldn't find much info on it for the 4g's. Has anyone actually had problems with the 4g's stock oil pan sump in a rwd configuration?

I just moved the screen to the rear main cap and cut the flange off then welded an extension tube in..

Bill I am just looking for one made from 1/8" plate steel. Nothing fancy here. PM me a price shipped and I will Paypal you..
Thanks
Dave

you can give me a call , Dave ( but I wont remember anything)

I built a rear sump oil pan using the OEM oil pan's flange. I have not finished my project, and i have not finished welding the oil pan together (just tacked it together), my welder is a POS as are my welding skills so i think im going to get it professionally TIG welded. The problems with the OEM flange is that it might warp when it gets welded because it so thin, and that at least with my oil pan there is a vertical section of the pan that "dents" inward. This dent means that to weld it on the inside would be alot harder, but welding along the outside may interfere with the pan bolts as the weld may not allow the bolt heads to fully contact the flange and warp it when they are tightend. A picture might be worth alot more than my words and if your interested u can see my work on CarDomain.com just search for "Ryobusa's 86 Hyundai Stellar". Since im not finished my oil pan i would be interested to know how much to get a nice new thicker flange, please let us know how u go about building your oil pan.

Bolt the flange to the block before welding it. That may help with the warping.

interesting.. I'll have to do the same thing when I finally get around to dropping in my 4g61t to my Hornet which is a rear sump to
.
I've got a couple turbo pans and thought of just cutting just below the panrail all around and just swapping ends.. Then using some hydraulic hose to connect a sump pickup to the 'sectioned' tube.

Then I thought of making one out of aluminum.. TOO hard

E

T(urd)67 wrote:What do you do about the oil pick up tube when doing the rear sump pan? I tossed around the idea of a rear sump pan as well but couldn't find much info on it for the 4g's. Has anyone actually had problems with the 4g's stock oil pan sump in
a rwd configuration?

Just an FYI, I have run the RX-7 with both a stock oil pan (2.0l) and with a Custom rear sump unit (2.4) and I did not have oil pressure issues with either. for the rear sump set up, I pciked up 1/2 steel flange and bu
ild the pan/extended the sump b/c I found the stock pan flange was to dirty/thin to work with. I had a similat front rack clearance issue that dave is having.

Well I just a small update before a couple months of down time, I went up to Bill's last weekend and picked up my modified crank adapter and oil pan flange, made a pan and mocked my trans up with the adapter and everything is well. (sorry no pics) Mean time the car just left to have the cage put in and then it is leaving the chassis shop to go strait to the my buddies body shop where he has something special planned for it. I have no Idea how its going to be painted all I know is its going to be Wild as he puts it. So I will update again once I get the car back and start my final assembly. Thanks guys,
Dave

Waiting Patiently