todays tip: newer cut stainles steel without armprotection....
3" -> 4" siliconeaapter
Old vs: newthrottlebody: 90mm BILLET
highpreassure raiatorcap
HX 60 anyone
thats a 5" gokartrim on top.
how many turbo do you see...
1994 EVOLUTION II GSR, from Sweden
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
attaching "some" parts today...
water radiator:
aircooled intercooler
oil radiator
chargecooler
small watercooler from an motorcycle for the chargecooler
A lot of hoses, intercoolerpipes & fittings...
26cm between camgears & the waterradiator
alu-pipes...
Silicon - al dudes like it right ? ?
The chargecooler found a good place after the intercooler
& just before the throttlebody: Will though need a lot of medefications
to the fittings
water radiator:
aircooled intercooler
oil radiator
chargecooler
small watercooler from an motorcycle for the chargecooler
A lot of hoses, intercoolerpipes & fittings...
26cm between camgears & the waterradiator
alu-pipes...
Silicon - al dudes like it right ? ?
The chargecooler found a good place after the intercooler
& just before the throttlebody: Will though need a lot of medefications
to the fittings
This high the turbocharger sits in the enginebay, i will lower it by 4cm
in order to try and make it clear the stock hood (i dont want to modify it)
3" pipe from I/C to the 90mm throttlebody, 15cm before the throttlebody, the pipe will be 4".
Enginebay:
14cm 4" pipe fitted onto the plenumchamber:
Also took the decision to wait with the chargecooler untril the engine is fully working.
in order to try and make it clear the stock hood (i dont want to modify it)
3" pipe from I/C to the 90mm throttlebody, 15cm before the throttlebody, the pipe will be 4".
Enginebay:
14cm 4" pipe fitted onto the plenumchamber:
Also took the decision to wait with the chargecooler untril the engine is fully working.
frontview of engine, here you can se the new wateroutlet in the head just
below/between the camgears, as you can see the cambelt is not perfectly
straightened here, but when straightened the belt will reside just 4mm
from the outletpipe
This will NOT work with the coolanthose/siloconehose im using since its 3mm thick.
So i will need to redesign the wateroutletpipe a litte, by cutting it shorter +
cutting it at an 45degree angle & weldning a short bit od pipe onto the existing one
This will make the pipe/hose stay some 12-13mm away from the cambelt = ok i think:
below/between the camgears, as you can see the cambelt is not perfectly
straightened here, but when straightened the belt will reside just 4mm
from the outletpipe
This will NOT work with the coolanthose/siloconehose im using since its 3mm thick.
So i will need to redesign the wateroutletpipe a litte, by cutting it shorter +
cutting it at an 45degree angle & weldning a short bit od pipe onto the existing one
This will make the pipe/hose stay some 12-13mm away from the cambelt = ok i think:
So i went over to a friends workplace, where he was tonight fixing his car (Audi A4 1,8 T Estate)
I borrowed his welder & welded the 4" pipe to the intake, with the throttlebodyflange.
I´m actually quite proud of myself with this welding
(the small strain of brown/black in the weld is just some sot)
All done:
Also welded the stock EVO "part" that activates the TPS: onto the throttlebody´s axle:
I borrowed his welder & welded the 4" pipe to the intake, with the throttlebodyflange.
I´m actually quite proud of myself with this welding
(the small strain of brown/black in the weld is just some sot)
All done:
Also welded the stock EVO "part" that activates the TPS: onto the throttlebody´s axle:
fitted the front diffusor today while waiting for my welderfriend Pelle
frontspoiler laid on top of the diffusor, which is an 12mm thick
water resistant plywood plate.
measuring since this plate was cut to fit an Mazda RX7, it will have an "overhang" of 80mm.
Stainless SPARCO fittings:
All done:
Now i need to cut the plates rear part and make a serious but easy
fitting under the car/engine.
frontspoiler laid on top of the diffusor, which is an 12mm thick
water resistant plywood plate.
measuring since this plate was cut to fit an Mazda RX7, it will have an "overhang" of 80mm.
Stainless SPARCO fittings:
All done:
Now i need to cut the plates rear part and make a serious but easy
fitting under the car/engine.
Time to work with fibreglas which i hate since i´m allergic to it:
The front splitter needed some serious fittings to be able to hold it in place & it will only hang onto the frontspoiler.
Epoxy + hardener + fibreglas:
poured the epoxy in two plastic cups (double) then went to get a snack
returned to this: :hellyeah:
what to do but start over :ohdamn:
The 5" hole for the former dragpipe was covered :
8 layers of fibreglas on the lower sides ´the front will be strong enough i think.. but only time will tell:
The front splitter needed some serious fittings to be able to hold it in place & it will only hang onto the frontspoiler.
Epoxy + hardener + fibreglas:
poured the epoxy in two plastic cups (double) then went to get a snack
returned to this: :hellyeah:
what to do but start over :ohdamn:
The 5" hole for the former dragpipe was covered :
8 layers of fibreglas on the lower sides ´the front will be strong enough i think.. but only time will tell:
reinforced the fittings a bit more, now 9 layers of fibreglas:
tested to se where i might need to cut a bit more on the splitter.
need to make a hole for the oilpan/oilplug, oilpan is 12cm fron the ground, the splitter will be 15cm
The front fenders are held by 3 bolts on the topside. the front one is its stock place, the middle one is 1cm further out, & the rear one is 2cm out:
This is what it looks like with the front controlarms widened 35mm with
ET 38 7,5"x17:
tested to se where i might need to cut a bit more on the splitter.
need to make a hole for the oilpan/oilplug, oilpan is 12cm fron the ground, the splitter will be 15cm
The front fenders are held by 3 bolts on the topside. the front one is its stock place, the middle one is 1cm further out, & the rear one is 2cm out:
This is what it looks like with the front controlarms widened 35mm with
ET 38 7,5"x17:
Stock wateroutlet has been welded shut!
2.nd version of the new wateroutlet done: the pipe was straight
out before, not its 45degree sideways & tilted a little down.
Also decided to use the leftovers from the radiator as the new 2:nd oilcooler,
with the long way the oil needs to travel within the cooler it will most probably
lower the oiltemp a lot more than in a smaller but "taller" cooler:
2.nd version of the new wateroutlet done: the pipe was straight
out before, not its 45degree sideways & tilted a little down.
Also decided to use the leftovers from the radiator as the new 2:nd oilcooler,
with the long way the oil needs to travel within the cooler it will most probably
lower the oiltemp a lot more than in a smaller but "taller" cooler:
[quote="Richard"]Are you sure a radiator core will be able to handle oil pressure?
radiator normally only sees around 1 bar
oil cooler on the pressure side can see 8 bar[/quote
personally no, not sure, but my friend Jimmy is able to preassuretest teh radiator if we want to.
But i was also thinking as to build the returnline from the radiator to be like thereturnline from the turbo,,, 2free-flow",,, not preassured. then i should work right, no preassure to talk about then ?
radiator normally only sees around 1 bar
oil cooler on the pressure side can see 8 bar[/quote
personally no, not sure, but my friend Jimmy is able to preassuretest teh radiator if we want to.
But i was also thinking as to build the returnline from the radiator to be like thereturnline from the turbo,,, 2free-flow",,, not preassured. then i should work right, no preassure to talk about then ?
Personally i would not use any restrictions on the oil return from the turbo.
More pressure in the oil return = more risk of oil leaking past the turbo shaft seal.
You could just try to circulate oil that is already in the oil pan, but i don't think it's worth the trouble & just results in more parts that could potentially fail.
you could also just add additional cooling fins to your oil pan..
And better yet, get an increased capacity pan with baffles suited for drifting/rwd mounting (or go dry sump)
More pressure in the oil return = more risk of oil leaking past the turbo shaft seal.
You could just try to circulate oil that is already in the oil pan, but i don't think it's worth the trouble & just results in more parts that could potentially fail.
you could also just add additional cooling fins to your oil pan..
And better yet, get an increased capacity pan with baffles suited for drifting/rwd mounting (or go dry sump)
4G63 DOHC 7 Bolt in a Starion.
drysump is out of the question for me, its a "road-legal" car this.Richard wrote:Personally i would not use any restrictions on the oil return from the turbo.
More pressure in the oil return = more risk of oil leaking past the turbo shaft seal.
You could just try to circulate oil that is already in the oil pan, but i don't think it's worth the trouble & just results in more parts that could potentially fail.
you could also just add additional cooling fins to your oil pan..
And better yet, get an increased capacity pan with baffles suited for drifting/rwd mounting (or go dry sump)
most probably i will mount the oilcooler "high" so the returnline freeflow´s back to the sump via a big" pipe.
Stock oilpan is perfectly suited for drifting i think, because its a rallycar, made to go in "any" direction, but a bigger sump, might just find its place
there soon, but after everything is done/started/tested.
please forgive me if i have several word misspellt/wrong, but i think you understand me anyways
Well a couple of things to think about here:KHRacing wrote:drysump is out of the question for me, its a "road-legal" car this.Richard wrote:Personally i would not use any restrictions on the oil return from the turbo.
More pressure in the oil return = more risk of oil leaking past the turbo shaft seal.
You could just try to circulate oil that is already in the oil pan, but i don't think it's worth the trouble & just results in more parts that could potentially fail.
you could also just add additional cooling fins to your oil pan..
And better yet, get an increased capacity pan with baffles suited for drifting/rwd mounting (or go dry sump)
most probably i will mount the oilcooler "high" so the returnline freeflow´s back to the sump via a big" pipe.
Stock oilpan is perfectly suited for drifting i think, because its a rallycar, made to go in "any" direction, but a bigger sump, might just find its place
there soon, but after everything is done/started/tested.
please forgive me if i have several word misspellt/wrong, but i think you understand me anyways
-when drifting you have a high load on the engine with oil being pushed in a different direction then normally during hard acceleration
-even evos can have issues with oil starvation on certain corners on the track
-what happens with that column of oil in that oil cooler during some cornering? make sure it does not want to flow back to the turbo....
-you have a oil pan made for a engine hanging tilted in a fwd position... and now use it in a rwd position hanging level (or at least a different angle ) is the oil pick-up in the pan still in an ideal position?
I'm not saying you will have problems, i have a similar setup in a Starion.. and killed my bearings because the oil overheated.. Oil cooling is very important, my cooler was obviously not enough..
4G63 DOHC 7 Bolt in a Starion.
Oilpickup has been measured & supposedly will work in the stock location !Richard wrote:
Well a couple of things to think about here:
-when drifting you have a high load on the engine with oil being pushed in a different direction then normally during hard acceleration
-even evos can have issues with oil starvation on certain corners on the track
-what happens with that column of oil in that oil cooler during some cornering? make sure it does not want to flow back to the turbo....
-you have a oil pan made for a engine hanging tilted in a fwd position... and now use it in a rwd position hanging level (or at least a different angle ) is the oil pick-up in the pan still in an ideal position?
I'm not saying you will have problems, i have a similar setup in a Starion.. and killed my bearings because the oil overheated.. Oil cooling is very important, my cooler was obviously not enough..
I have actually never heard that evos can suffer from oilstarvation, thanx
fot telling me, now i think i shall take a deeper look into this part of the engine.
Talked to my welderfriend Jimmie & we will remake the oilpan a bit !
/ K
Arches beeing fitted:
Measure,measure and a bit more measuring: Then using any tejp to hold them in place: (my front fenders were already raised/cut 2cm some years back)
drill 3mm holes, and use 4mm wodden screws to hold in place temporary:
Bet you thought this was it right ? ?
But its not.......
Because now the arches will be taken off, & will cut the fenders a bit more. so the lowest point will be an additional 2-3cm upp.
painted a line: 2cm below the holes:
cutting:
Almost done:
So, fenders probably 4,5cm higher than stock now:
These plastic arches hav a similar "angle that folds under the arch like on any stock car., here you see how i have cut this angle off, so that i really can get the tires lowered&further out, if this hadn´t been done, moving the tires out would not have been possible:
Also here are my XYZ Drift-Specs Coilover maxlowered:
maximum lowered, oilpan is 4,5cm above ground:
left turn:
right turn:
All for today:
Measure,measure and a bit more measuring: Then using any tejp to hold them in place: (my front fenders were already raised/cut 2cm some years back)
drill 3mm holes, and use 4mm wodden screws to hold in place temporary:
Bet you thought this was it right ? ?
But its not.......
Because now the arches will be taken off, & will cut the fenders a bit more. so the lowest point will be an additional 2-3cm upp.
painted a line: 2cm below the holes:
cutting:
Almost done:
So, fenders probably 4,5cm higher than stock now:
These plastic arches hav a similar "angle that folds under the arch like on any stock car., here you see how i have cut this angle off, so that i really can get the tires lowered&further out, if this hadn´t been done, moving the tires out would not have been possible:
Also here are my XYZ Drift-Specs Coilover maxlowered:
maximum lowered, oilpan is 4,5cm above ground:
left turn:
right turn:
All for today:
Right front arch fitted:
Started on the left rear by measurning it in place:
Drilled the holes & attached the screws:
Removed the arch to measure where to cut the stock fender:
Also cut a little off the rear bumper:
stock fender cut 4cm:
Cut:
Started weldning inner/outer fender together:
The inner fender is hammered out & then welded to the outher one:
All welded & grinded:
Painted after grinding/cleaning:
4 hours work is what it took.
Started on the left rear by measurning it in place:
Drilled the holes & attached the screws:
Removed the arch to measure where to cut the stock fender:
Also cut a little off the rear bumper:
stock fender cut 4cm:
Cut:
Started weldning inner/outer fender together:
The inner fender is hammered out & then welded to the outher one:
All welded & grinded:
Painted after grinding/cleaning:
4 hours work is what it took.
My oldest 17"´s spraypainted...
The tires are crap...
Another set of 17"´s:
Pretty good i think:
Great contrast:
only eight rims left to paint....
Attended Northern Europes biggest carmeet/show today, Vallåkraträffen 18-19 Augusti 2012 | Skandiaviens största bilträff - Showtruckar, veteranlastbilar motorträffen för alla
visited my sponsor REALCAR.se stand & collected my new racesuit.:
The tires are crap...
Another set of 17"´s:
Pretty good i think:
Great contrast:
only eight rims left to paint....
Attended Northern Europes biggest carmeet/show today, Vallåkraträffen 18-19 Augusti 2012 | Skandiaviens största bilträff - Showtruckar, veteranlastbilar motorträffen för alla
visited my sponsor REALCAR.se stand & collected my new racesuit.:
Time to build the downpipe:
A great big thanx to Jesper at http://www.flatoutperformance.se/shop/
who is helping me with a lot of parts, includning the exhaust & new guages.
Chose the easy way by using 3,5" exhaustpipes:
first part spotwelded to the outlet & the second part attached to it:
It fits:
Down by the gearbox/firewall there is approximatley 8mm free space around the 3,5" exhaust:
first 2 pieces welded together & grinded:
All done and testfitted. nothings rubs :You_Rock_Emoticon:
first coupling will be an 3,5" V-band
A great big thanx to Jesper at http://www.flatoutperformance.se/shop/
who is helping me with a lot of parts, includning the exhaust & new guages.
Chose the easy way by using 3,5" exhaustpipes:
first part spotwelded to the outlet & the second part attached to it:
It fits:
Down by the gearbox/firewall there is approximatley 8mm free space around the 3,5" exhaust:
first 2 pieces welded together & grinded:
All done and testfitted. nothings rubs :You_Rock_Emoticon:
first coupling will be an 3,5" V-band
After Dp & manifold was done, it was time to wrap them up in exhaustwrap:
Downpipe up first:
Done, a single package of 50mm wrap was just enough:
tested on the car/turbo:
Underneath exiting from the firewall/gearbox:
Time for the headers:
Two pipes done:
Three done:
All four done finally:
A small stabilising rod made from an welded 10mm nut/bolt / fully adjustable to keep the manifolk from hanging/cracking because of the heavy turbo:
hoseclamps on each end of the manifold:
Downpipe up first:
Done, a single package of 50mm wrap was just enough:
tested on the car/turbo:
Underneath exiting from the firewall/gearbox:
Time for the headers:
Two pipes done:
Three done:
All four done finally:
A small stabilising rod made from an welded 10mm nut/bolt / fully adjustable to keep the manifolk from hanging/cracking because of the heavy turbo:
hoseclamps on each end of the manifold:
These are the outer shell of the Volvo B230 engine´s thermostat housing,
I´ll be using these two fitted together as a thermostat attached to the short welded water outletpipe :
finally the intake manifold has been machined, took just 2,5hours :dontknow:
Also a 35x80mm 4mm plate has been weled into the plemunchamber
where i will drill & tap the holes for all the pneumatic couplings for wacum hoses
The intake will be grinded down a bit & the painted black, & finally
covered in real carbonfibre.
I´ll be using these two fitted together as a thermostat attached to the short welded water outletpipe :
finally the intake manifold has been machined, took just 2,5hours :dontknow:
Also a 35x80mm 4mm plate has been weled into the plemunchamber
where i will drill & tap the holes for all the pneumatic couplings for wacum hoses
The intake will be grinded down a bit & the painted black, & finally
covered in real carbonfibre.
For the last week i have been working on Tommy´s race RX7 3rotor.
we had the final races this weekend & we had the engine out & beeing rebuilt because of serious vibrations, The result was 43grams off balance on the crank & 81grams off balance on just one of the three rotors. This is kind of unbeliveably much...
on thursday, friday morning we fitted it again, & it sounded great,
The races were saturday & sunday:
raceday: Anyone spot the carmodel on the right ?
Yess.. its a Ford GT40... no... sorry, its T W O GT40´s
the classicraces were won by the white car with the blue one in 10:th place.
Our races were DNF in both due to electrical problems :
-----------------------------------------------------
Put in a steel plate which has been drilled/taped for the vacuumhoses:
Sanding sanding & sanding, i hate it since im allergic to fibreglas
But it turned out pretty good.
All the welds are covered except the ones by the throttlebody:
Now the intake is at the local paintshop beeing painted gloss black:
Then its time to wrap it with real carbonfibre:
Intake painted:
Then slightly sanded & wrapped on real carbonfibre:
After this, it will sit for a week i hope, to harden, then sanded
againt & clearcoated several times.
After the carbonwrapping was done i let it dry a while before taking it the my garage where i have the car, for testfittning the last intercoolerpipe.
A small builderror occured, the waterpipe from the top of the radiator & the throttlecable .. Hmm where in the same place, i solved it by moving the radiatir 5-6mm forward.
So now the throttlecable is "close". but dont rub at all. The waterpipe touches the intake though, but i dont think it matters due to superhard enginebushings.
The pipe is made from 4pcs silioconehose + 3pcs 80mm alupipes...
we had the final races this weekend & we had the engine out & beeing rebuilt because of serious vibrations, The result was 43grams off balance on the crank & 81grams off balance on just one of the three rotors. This is kind of unbeliveably much...
on thursday, friday morning we fitted it again, & it sounded great,The races were saturday & sunday:
raceday: Anyone spot the carmodel on the right ?
Yess.. its a Ford GT40... no... sorry, its T W O GT40´s
the classicraces were won by the white car with the blue one in 10:th place.
Our races were DNF in both due to electrical problems :
-----------------------------------------------------
Put in a steel plate which has been drilled/taped for the vacuumhoses:
Sanding sanding & sanding, i hate it since im allergic to fibreglas
But it turned out pretty good.
All the welds are covered except the ones by the throttlebody:
Now the intake is at the local paintshop beeing painted gloss black:
Then its time to wrap it with real carbonfibre:
Intake painted:
Then slightly sanded & wrapped on real carbonfibre:
After this, it will sit for a week i hope, to harden, then sanded
againt & clearcoated several times.
After the carbonwrapping was done i let it dry a while before taking it the my garage where i have the car, for testfittning the last intercoolerpipe.
A small builderror occured
, the waterpipe from the top of the radiator & the throttlecable .. Hmm where in the same place, i solved it by moving the radiatir 5-6mm forward.So now the throttlecable is "close". but dont rub at all. The waterpipe touches the intake though, but i dont think it matters due to superhard enginebushings.
The pipe is made from 4pcs silioconehose + 3pcs 80mm alupipes...
underside of the intake...
brought the car from my garage to a workshop
My friend Sebbe & myself has started to get the engine/gearbox out.:
A nice picture of my new dailydriver:
Nissan Almera Gti 1999 Sr20 engine, 143bhp, 17" wintertires hehe
Engine out again: (probably for the last time
engine/gearbox separated.
Oilpan gets bigger volume, 0,8L bigger:
Done:
Time to reassemble after checking main bearings & rodbearings:
Flywheel beeing fitted., using 135 NM:
Oilpan fitted again & painted with ruststopper, will be painted tomorrow:
Sebbe & Jimmie measuring the clutch:
Also put in some welded reinforcement plates. where i had to cut to make
room for the intercoolerpipes:
brought the car from my garage to a workshop
My friend Sebbe & myself has started to get the engine/gearbox out.:
A nice picture of my new dailydriver:
Nissan Almera Gti 1999 Sr20 engine, 143bhp, 17" wintertires hehe
Engine out again: (probably for the last time
engine/gearbox separated.
Oilpan gets bigger volume, 0,8L bigger:
Done:
Time to reassemble after checking main bearings & rodbearings:
Flywheel beeing fitted., using 135 NM:
Oilpan fitted again & painted with ruststopper, will be painted tomorrow:
Sebbe & Jimmie measuring the clutch:
Also put in some welded reinforcement plates. where i had to cut to make
room for the intercoolerpipes:
Turbo & downpipe fitted again for me to finnish the exhaust:
propshaft fitted:
Nice to know i made some inspectionhatches , easy to reach the propshaft/gearlevel.
Starter fitted:
Began the final parts of the exhaust:
Simons 3" muffler with re-done fitting to 3,5"
Nicklas welds the exhaust.
Rear facing muffler i welded togehter with the FIA-proven katalytic converter at the very rear of the car, since i run on E85, the cat dont get
very hot, but rules simply state there has to be a cat on the car, so at the rear is the best place.
Third time´s a charm, right ?
This is the 3.rd version of my AEM fuelrail, hehe
Oe end drilled to make an AN8 weldable coupling fit
AN8:
Welded by Pelle the welderman:
Sandblasted after welding, here you see the old holes welded shut, in the opposite end there will be an AN6 coupling:
Fuelpreasureregulator stripped for welding an AN coupling to it:l=http://forumbilder.se/show.aspx?iid=ab620121048141c25]
[/url]
Pelle welding:
Welded, sandblasted & done:
AN-couplings from my sponsor: JJ Autoparts
5 meters Ethanol approved AN8 steelbraided hose:
The hose i think will be enough
Fuelline will go through the passengercompartment from rear firewall
to front, here is the front:
propshaft fitted:
Nice to know i made some inspectionhatches , easy to reach the propshaft/gearlevel.
Starter fitted:
Began the final parts of the exhaust:
Simons 3" muffler with re-done fitting to 3,5"
Nicklas welds the exhaust.
Rear facing muffler i welded togehter with the FIA-proven katalytic converter at the very rear of the car, since i run on E85, the cat dont get
very hot, but rules simply state there has to be a cat on the car, so at the rear is the best place.
Third time´s a charm, right ?
This is the 3.rd version of my AEM fuelrail, hehe
Oe end drilled to make an AN8 weldable coupling fit
AN8:
Welded by Pelle the welderman:
Sandblasted after welding, here you see the old holes welded shut, in the opposite end there will be an AN6 coupling:
Fuelpreasureregulator stripped for welding an AN coupling to it:l=http://forumbilder.se/show.aspx?iid=ab620121048141c25]
[/url]Pelle welding:
Welded, sandblasted & done:
AN-couplings from my sponsor: JJ Autoparts
5 meters Ethanol approved AN8 steelbraided hose:
The hose i think will be enough
Fuelline will go through the passengercompartment from rear firewall
to front, here is the front:
put togehter some AN8 hoses for the fuelsystem:
done:
An10 for the turbos oil-returnhose:
fitted the fuelpreassureregulator in the enginebay:
My Bosch 1680cc injector have been tested at Tezz Motorsport
VIDEO0034 - YouTube
6cm long 4" pipe for the airfilter/hose:
oilfeederline:
Fuelrail painted black & injectors fitted:
injectorcables fitted below the intake:
done:
An10 for the turbos oil-returnhose:
fitted the fuelpreassureregulator in the enginebay:
My Bosch 1680cc injector have been tested at Tezz Motorsport
VIDEO0034 - YouTube
6cm long 4" pipe for the airfilter/hose:
oilfeederline:
Fuelrail painted black & injectors fitted:
injectorcables fitted below the intake:
New waterpump testfitted:
did not fit, the waterpipe would have gone straight through the
compressorhousing of the turbocharger:
made a cut...:
Off to my friend Pelle the welderman again :
done:
new cambelt wheels:
parts in place:
Hexbolt with extra low "head" for the gearlever:
A picture from Home
fitting the dumpvalves with alu-bolts, with a special rubber gasket/sealant
done:
fitted alternator + cables + the adjuster, just sorry nothing fit correctly...
Here you see the alternatorbelt if stretched would rub the oilpump-bolt - not good.
So i made a new 30mm lower mount for the alternator
The right one´s the new lower version !
here you see the difference in height, placed on top of the old one
did not fit, the waterpipe would have gone straight through the
compressorhousing of the turbocharger:
made a cut...:
Off to my friend Pelle the welderman again :
done:
new cambelt wheels:
parts in place:
Hexbolt with extra low "head" for the gearlever:
A picture from Home
fitting the dumpvalves with alu-bolts, with a special rubber gasket/sealant
done:
fitted alternator + cables + the adjuster, just sorry nothing fit correctly...
Here you see the alternatorbelt if stretched would rub the oilpump-bolt - not good.
So i made a new 30mm lower mount for the alternator
The right one´s the new lower version !
here you see the difference in height, placed on top of the old one
Waterpump-belt:
fitting the new guages:
the lower waterpipe:
fitted:
Intercooler fittings:
in place with twin dumpvalves:
new powercables for the fuelpumps:
A little tight:
4" airfilter from K&N + flexible hose for the filter:
ignitioncables. TAYLOR RACING, 9,5mm handmade to the correct lenght.
(came in a roll + pieces)
Thermostat, Volvo B230 80 degree, with mods, 6 2mm holes to allow slightly higher flow:
drilled 3 holes for the wastegate & dumpvalve vacumhoses to go through
the radiatorshroud
Also a new "vacum"-hose for the coolant overflowtank:
And fitted the overflowtank:
I have no idea as to what stock item passed through ths "hole" here,
but it was perfect for the vacumhose for the turboguage:
And on the other side there was a similar passage, so I pulled through the hose to the computerbox´s preasuremeter there.
fitting the new guages:
the lower waterpipe:
fitted:
Intercooler fittings:
in place with twin dumpvalves:
new powercables for the fuelpumps:
A little tight:
4" airfilter from K&N + flexible hose for the filter:
ignitioncables. TAYLOR RACING, 9,5mm handmade to the correct lenght.
(came in a roll + pieces)
Thermostat, Volvo B230 80 degree, with mods, 6 2mm holes to allow slightly higher flow:
drilled 3 holes for the wastegate & dumpvalve vacumhoses to go through
the radiatorshroud
Also a new "vacum"-hose for the coolant overflowtank:
And fitted the overflowtank:
I have no idea as to what stock item passed through ths "hole" here,
but it was perfect for the vacumhose for the turboguage:
And on the other side there was a similar passage, so I pulled through the hose to the computerbox´s preasuremeter there.
changed to oilcoolers first position again
But this time it sits vertical instead of horizontal as before:
New AN8 oilcooler feederlines with heatshilded "material" covering them:
Handbrake / gearlever:
Some engine view´s:
Finally got back my Versitile Engine Managment system, VEMS, which has been upgraded:
But this time it sits vertical instead of horizontal as before:
New AN8 oilcooler feederlines with heatshilded "material" covering them:
Handbrake / gearlever:
Some engine view´s:
Finally got back my Versitile Engine Managment system, VEMS, which has been upgraded: