shroder15 wrote:Thanks for the info Bill. If you are looking to shoot the starter gear to me, please let me know how much I owe you so I can paypal it to you. Thanks!
I need an adress Shroder, I got tooo many code names and internet handles to sort out which one is you >;o) PM me
Hey Bill,
Sorry for the delayed response. My freakin home phone has gotten shut off because Verizon doesn't know how to send bills out....ghey. Anyways, if you could ship it to Todd Justice, 1122 glenfield Dr, Lynchburg, VA 24502 it would be awesome. What do I owe ya man...shoot me pm if you dont want to post over the forum. Thanks!
My internet is insanely slow today (love dial-up!!) so, I didn't visit the earlier posts and I don't recall the earlier discussion.
So, what pattern is this? EVO4-later? Did the EVO line change? Like 4-8 is one pattern, and EVO9 is another?
Story, I've bought 4-5 Mitsubishi diesels. They are all differing vintage. The last 2 I bought have a different pattern than a 1g 2g dsm, so I suspect it's a EVO pattern. Here is a pic or two:
Hopefully, this plate gets revisited. I'd like to see it get the bolt pattern for the Buick, Olds, Pontiac (BOP) transmissions which would entail 4 extra holes. The dowel locations are the same. And the potential to include the EVO pattern in addition to the DSM pattern? Thoughts?
Ultimately I'd like to put the EVO? patterned diesels in 1-2g dsms and save one for a RWD config in a starion with a BOP trans behind it. (BOP becuase I have a crap ton of 350 and 400's laying around. )
No, Bill. It's not a 2nd gen DSM pattern. Remember you can bolt together a 2nd gen and 1st gen 4g63. The locating dowels are lower bolt locations. The second pic shows a 1st gen backing plate on it for reference. The holes on the left side, the second hole up is doweled. The pattern is different than 1st/2nd gen 4g63 (or EVO1-3). So again, my question is what vin EVO is this?
it doesnt look like a EVO 4-9 either, the lower doweled bolt hole in the lower skirt is about a 1/2 wider then the 1st and 2nd gen , so I think it may be a cross breed of the two
I am sure my plate can be drilled to it, but I would need a engine plate to make sure
Bill,
I'm trying to pop the retaining clip off of the top of the starter to change the gear, but cannot for the life of me get it to come off. I asked a friend if we should disassmble the starter and he said no veeery firmly. Just curious how you swapped out the gear? Thanks!
Bill, I actually just saw how you removed it a few posts above. I dont know how I missed it. I'll try and just take it apart and go from there. Thanks again!
Bill, How far out do those 'ears' stick out from the GM trans?
And how far would it be from edge to edge? (for the width of my AMC's tunnel)
Would you think that with hard motor mounts/ mid plate ears/ hard trans crossmember be "TOO" harsh on the floor of a unibody?
There is tons of room around the axle, so I thought of adapting in a quest rear suspension..?
Bill I bought one of your first TH350 plates and I am in need to the part number of the starter pinion gear that fits on the 22re starter. I cant seem to find the CD you sent with it anywhere.
Wow i miss my 4g63 awd Talon, But a 4g63 fox body mustang/TH350 set up sounds like a winner. This is definatly my next build. This adapter is really changing the DSM world i know people are tired of breaking trannies.
Are these still in production Bill?
Hey Bill, I bought a kit from you a while ago, and you had mentioned to me over the phone that you had found some ARP bolts to replace the factory crank bolts used to hold the crank adaptor, any news on this? and do you have a part number?
I went out and searched the catalogs and bought some bolts that I thought may help but none of them really improved on the OEM manual flywheel bolts
the coupler is designed to use the OEM bolts because they are 10mm deep, when the bolts are tightened by hand they sink into the crank to 9mm so its very close
This is the closest I came to improving the bolt, its from a Toyota and its 1mm longer, so great care would be needed to make sure you torque the couple to the crank and not just be twisting the bolt in the crank
it is imperitive to use the dowel pin in the crank and NOT use washers under the crank bolt, when you leave the pin out and use a washer, you allow the coupler a way to work loose
the chamfer on the bolt hole edges conforms with the shoulder of the flywheel bolt so it forms a lock between the coupler and the bolt.
The 700 doesn't like high HP and is more costly to build and buy converters for. It's good for a put put car that cruise a lot. I looked into it when I first started my swap.
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
Its might not change a thing, but members should know the liar and thief that is WAYNE WIKE. There is a valid reason why WAYNE WIKE AKA Professor Quest has been banned from most Starquest related sites including: Starquestclub, KDMPerformance, 26literus, Starquest IX, etc. He is a criminal, and a predator, he rippes off Starion and Conquest enthusiasts for his own personal gain. He parts out these cars mercilessly and can't even do that honestly. Please do not erase this thread, let members be aware of this crook, before sending him money. He has never completed our transaction, he kept ALL my parts and money, and walked away...refused to offer any solution or give any sort of refund!!! My record speaks for its self.....I have been a Starquest owner since 2001, I am a upstanding member of all the sites mentioned above, I have bought and sold countless items valued in thousands of dollars over the years using these sites... never had any issues with members besides this Thief. What he wrote about me is PURE LIE, the lady he mentioned is my friend to this day, and she will chime in, in my behalf if he continues this slander. Its only diversionary tactics friends, this man is a liar and a thief!!! This is my last post in this thread.