Project Zero G Forums

DropEverything wrote:Good job getting it rolling. Looks like all that's left is little details. Thanks for the heads-up on the RRE flanges. I'd been to their site a few times and hadn't noticed those pieces, but I'm definitely going to have to order one, probably this week. I know now is a bad time to ask, but do you have any better pics of your alternator mounts?

Oh not a problem. I used the alternator relocation kit from Jayracing. I'll snap some pics as soon as I can. It's really a simple kit, just a turnbuckle with some eyebolt ends and a machined piece of aluminum. I like the thought of the alternator staying away from the hot side of the engine. It also frees up some space to get to oil lines, filters, turbo, etc.

One problem with that alternator kit is the ignition timing. The new location makes the belt go right over the hash marks on the timing cover and its hard to see the timing. Not a big problem though.

Oh yeah. I completely forgot about that site. I was looking at their water outlet relocation kit a while back. Just checked out the alternator kit and it looks like a pretty well made setup. I saw yours was on the other side and thought maybe you had made your own brackets. That's the route I was looking to go. I'm pretty handy with metal, so I should be able to do it, but if not I'll probably just get that kit. Thanks again for the help.

Well I found my problem concerning running lean at throttle tip in. Me in my infinite wisdom decided to adjust the TPS back so the idle would be around 5% open. Well at idle with the throttle plate completely closed, the sensor should be at around 9-10%. Doing some research, the accel enrich function doesn't work unless the throttle plate is past 10%. I set the TPS position back to 10% and it works wonders.

With a few miles on the engine, I changed the oil to a synthetic, re-tightened the head studs, and upped the boost to 15 psi. My fuel trims were all right where they should be so it seemed only prudent. All I have to say is 15 lbs on a 16g feels GOOD! My old dsm was never this quick even running 20+ lbs. I missed that slingshot 'warp' effect when the turbo kicks in...so fun! The bad part (and the only bad part) is the tires. The 60k all season tires have now become about 2k tires. Full boost in 1st will spin easy, 2nd gear will spin everytime from a throttle roll on, 3rd hooks up good. The LSD is definately doing some work. I think a good set of sticky tires and some caltracs could fix it for good.

I'm reluctant to go past 15 psi right now because my timing is WAY to aggressive. I have 750cc running with a MAFT. Thinking that its seeing lower airflow is putting me into a really advanced timing map. I have no knock at all but I still don't feel good about it. Some people say 650s are the largest you can go running a MAFT without timing control. Right now, I'm totally satisfied with the truck. Maybe in a few months, I'll send in my ecu and get dsmlink and make it even faster

Got some new paint. Cyber gray off the new vets The painter sprayed the bed with some pretty tough liner. Has not been cut or detailed yet. There are a few dings that I noticed AFTER the paint job but I really don't want it to be perfect. It's a truck not a show car. Sure feels good to be driving something other than a primer gray minitruck! I'm very happy with it. Only one last thing to do which is to install DSMlink. Anyways, here are some pics.

Looking good. That's going to make a nice little daily driver/sleeper. I really like the color too. Something low-key that won't stand out too much and neutral enough that you won't get tired of seeing it like some wild orange or yellow. Nice build.

DropEverything wrote:Looking good. That's going to make a nice little daily driver/sleeper. I really like the color too. Something low-key that won't stand out too much and neutral enough that you won't get tired of seeing it like some wild orange or yellow. Nice build.

Yeah I don't think practical cars should have crazy loud colors. Lambo's can get away with bright neon colors but not a mini truck imo.

My truck has some work to do this last weekend! I am moving into a new place and used it to transfer everything across town. It was over 100 out and I was in stop and go traffic with lots of time at red lights but I never saw more that 202 on the gauge (I have a 196 thermostat). Pretty happy with it.

I'm out of town on business for a month (damit!). My DSMLink V3 lite came with my socketed ECU. When I get back and settled in to the new place, I going to hook it up and see what all the fuss is about. I was planning on running the link with the GM-maf just to see what it's like for now. I do have the sensors to go speed density though.

Like the color and rims.. There is a mazda in a yard near me with those on it. I think it's 4wd.
How much did the DSM-link and ecu run ya?

E

Still enjoying the seats??? Did they come with slides?? How do they fit your body, and what type of body (weight, height, build, etc.) do you have?

Robert Venable wrote:Still enjoying the seats??? Did they come with slides?? How do they fit your body, and what type of body (weight, height, build, etc.) do you have?

Yeah seats are great. They aren't too snug and are still easy to get in and out of. They did come with the slides. The only thing I don't like about them is the recline isn't a lever like most, its a knob on either side that you rotate...like you find on VW's. But in my truck, it doesn't really get touched much. I'm 5'-10" 180 lbs, 32" waist. For perspective, my dad who is my height and around 200 lbs, thinks they are too snug. But it might be a preference thing.

I went with dsmlink v3 lite. It still does speed density and all major functions. The difference is the mapping only goes to 8,000 rpm and not 10,000 rpm like on the normal v3. I also had them socket my ECU so all together I'd say $500. Still need to buy a laptop too.

how kwel is that ? >;O) OUTSTANDING work it was well worth your effort

Hey man. When you redid your CAS wiring, did you cut away the black plastic surrounding where the wiring goes in? im doing mine but struggling to figure out another way of getting to the terminals inside the CAS.

Lunacy wrote:Hey man. When you redid your CAS wiring, did you cut away the black plastic surrounding where the wiring goes in? im doing mine but struggling to figure out another way of getting to the terminals inside the CAS.

Yeah I used a dremel tool and cut away the black plastic part. To seal it back up, I just used some rtv sealant

Well its been a while since i posted so I figured an update was in order. I haven't really done anything major to write home about. I keep tuckng more wiring and just cleaning up the bay. Replaced the normal radiator hose clamps with some nicer t-bolt style clamps. Still learning dsmlink v3. Overall I am really enjoying the truck! Its amazing how I ever got by with out it just from a utility point. I took it camping, hauled a load or sod and helped my brother move all while being a blast to drive. I do miss the traction of awd but the lightness of the little thing makes the 4g feel a lot bigger. I do wish it could get out of the hole faster. Big tires with long gears and a lightweight flywheel conspire to give crappy hole shots. That's ok though, im fine with racing from a roll (if I ever did that stuff )

Here a pic from last weekend, I took it up a fun little dirt road outside boise:


Lsd still working


I did actualy have my first mechanical issue ever today (which made me think of this forum). I got in it today after sitting for a week or so. Started the engine, pushed in the clutch, put it in reverse (w58), half way let the clutch out to backup slowly and I heard a strange grinding noise. It popped out of reverse and wouldn't go into any gear. I shut off the motor and pushed it back into place. With the engine off, the tranny felt fine, all the gates were there as usual. It would go into any gear with the engine off no problem. I started the engine and tried to put it in gear and it wont go, it like I have no clutch engagement.
Ok I think maybe I blew a slave or master clyinder. I get down on my back and push the pedal with my hand while watching the slave...no problem. I have full stroke like normal and there is no fluid leaking. Hmm..not sure what to think. Oh and if I start it in gear, it grabs hard. The clutch and tranny are engaging but for some strange reason that I can't figure out, the pedal isn't disengaging the clutch even though I can see the slave pushing the fork. Maybe so retainer clip fell off? I dunno but ill find out this weekend! Keep ya all updated.

So I found out what the issue was...



I guessed I picked up a cheapo friction disk because the rubber damper broke which is what I heard rattling around. I thought there are usually springs. Hmm... Could have been worse I guess. My new problem is I don't remeber the part number for the disk and autozone doesn't have it on file. For the record its a w58 tranny with a billhousing adpater. The friction disk they keep bringing up is a 9 1/4" disk where the one I need is a 9". Mr bill are you out there?

Sounds like it could possibly be a locked up pilot bearing. I had one that was intermittently locking up on me that did the same thing, but I was able to force it to release by standing on the brakes.

Sounds like a tranny R+I is in your future.

Guess you beat me to it.

Robert Venable wrote:Sounds like it could possibly be a locked up pilot bearing. I had one that was intermittently locking up on me that did the same thing, but I was able to force it to release by standing on the brakes.

Sounds like a tranny R+I is in your future.

R+I? I'm not sure what that is? The tranny seems perfect. When I took the bellhousing off, I was able to turn the input shaft by hand and watch the driveshaft rotate in gear so there doesn't seem to be anything locked up. The gears are all butter smooth too. I was planning on simply replacing the disk.

That happens alot. The trans is most definitely fine. I would get a slightly better than stock replacement disc or atleast dealer disc.

Got the new clutch today. It looks like a much nicer unit.

R+I=Remove and Install
R+R=Remove and Replace

Nice dog you've got there. I see it's really into exercise and fitness, just like mine.

Sorry to semi-hijack your project thread, but has anyone done the 2.4L head swap onto the 2.0L block for fuel-injection upgrade? If so, what were your conclusions?

I have an '88 pickup body in good condition, and the 2.0L A/T shortblock was done awhile back and I've left it sitting. I found an '84 Tredia head, 8-valve, no MCA jet, that I am contemplating. I don't trust myself to do move-forward mods for the block and transmission, and I don't want to cut the firewall, so as far as I can figure, I've got no 16V options. Nothing, basically, except the Weber carb and some opened-up exhaust. The Tredia head can get the useful RPM up, but the chambers are very symmetrical -- very little induced turbulence with the best of porting.

I want about 140HP. I don't see a way to get that without 16V or finding some turbo to fit.

You guys are all smart and experienced -- I'm just a average weekend mechanic. Any constructive suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike