Has anyone used their CAS that mounts on the front as I am doing a DOHC rwd conversion and it would be a good thing if I dont have to bash the firewall or move motor forward
Your advice / help would be G R 8
CHEERS
Rad
OLDIE wrote:Has anyone used their CAS that mounts on the front as I am doing a DOHC rwd conversion and it would be a good thing if I don't have to bash the firewall or move motor forward
Your advice / help would be G R 8
CHEERS
Rad
I found this link, but being a noob i am not sure if it totally replaces the cam angle sensor or just does the crank sensor half of what the 1g cas does.
It only replaces the crank angle sensor portion of the signal. You still retain the CAS for the cam portion of the signal. The only way I can think of to not have a CAS facing the firewall would be to use a 2g 7 bolt setup.
if you could figure out the wiring you could use the kiggly crank trigger and a 95-96 2.0 head with the cam sensor that runs off the intake cam gear. that is going to be one of my future revisions so i can free up some working room in the back of the motor.
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
Thanks 4 all your replies I definately won't be using the FBH OR GAS AXE METHOD BUT WILL BE MOVING THE ENGINE& GEARBOX 15 MM(5/8 th of one inch to you guys ) forward by redrilling the appropriate mounts
I have been throwing around the idea of using the 95-96 setup as well. I had been messaging Kevin Kiggly about this and he had suggested welding some bosses on the 1g head in order to mount the 2g setup on there, or simply use the 2g head. The only downfall here is when it comes to adj cam gears due to the trigger on the intake cam gear.
UPDATE Now have a setup on the front of the crank so no longer need to move motor forward or the FBH method
Hope to be able to offer them for sale in a few months
I started Craig's car the other day. It has a 95/96 timing setup. 2G crank sensor on a 6 bolt front cover and a 2G cam sensor on a 1G head. We dont have any tune yet, but it didnt seem to have any trouble spinning to 3000rpm (no load). Can't wait to get it tuned. We are crossing our fingers that it continues to work fine up to 8000rpm on the dyno.
All I had to make was a little bracket to mount the crank sensor on and I had to trim a 1G timing plate (the metal disc between the timing belt sprocket and the balance shaft sprocket).
Base timing was only about 1 degree off due to imperfection in sensor placement or trigger wheel trimming. That is close enough for a stock ECU to work just fine.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
You need adjustable cam gears to properly degree in the cams. You need them for both intake and exhaust assuming you have aftermarket cams. There are few cams that come as advertised and I assure you they are not under 500usd a set.