This page shows how the motor will sit in the car if you use the stock mounting positions. This is how close to the firewall and brake booster will be to the intake manifold, water neck and crank angle sensor (CAS).
If I have not yet convinced you to do otherwise you may want to move the engine forward rather than modify parts of the engine. The chassis is setup for this particular change. Where the transmission crossmember bolts to the chassis, there are 8 holes. Four on each side. This allows for moving the mount forward 2 inches. This is how we get 2 inches as our magical number! For the transmission mounts you just bolt it to these other holes, but for the engine mounts you will need to make adapter plates.
The plates are very simple. There are 2 sets of holes per side. Two of the holes bolt the plate to the crossmember, 2 of them to bolt the plates to mounts. Because one of the bolts needs to lie under the motor mount, it is important to counterbore the hole. I used only a table saw, drill press and a file to make them. So they should be easy enough for anyone to make.
After the engine is moved forward you will need to extend the driveshaft. Take the shaft to any driveshaft shop and they should be able to make a new one for you that is 2 inches longer. If you're handy with a lathe, you can turn down the welds and reuse the yolks.
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