Hello all on here. This is my intro post for my new little venture. (long, but might give some insight)
A little background on me and my cars. I've been racing and building cars for around 30 years now. Everything from GM muscle cars that have went mid 8's at 8000ft DA. To my current Fun, semi DD, Porsche 944turbo that has went 11.1 @132 this season at 8000ft DA. BITD I also tuned and crewed a low 6 second nitro coupe.
I have gotten back in the drag game over the last couple years using MY Porsche. However, I've really been drawn back in to the street race as well. Now that we have some street legal street racing happen, I'm really excited to get back to the top of the street cars around here. After trying to get into our top ten with the porsche with limited success I had to rethink my direction. The porsche works great on a "no -prep" race situation, beating a few mid to low 9 second cars..But it's getting more difficult with a lot of drag cars coming out and them doing way too much prep IMO. The other problem is that the Porsche is a transaxle car, and likes to break axle joints and now the transaxle itself.
My DSM experience is relatively limited. I've tuned my sons talon to run 11.8 @ 118 up here with minimal changes ie: holset hy35 using a t3 .63, clutch, injectors, ostrich. exhaust, with a stock IC. I really only worked on it for about 3 months.
So onto my new venture. After visiting Puerto Rico with my girl this year, I realized that I could do everything I want to do with a smaller budget using a small platform. I was really impressed with the cars I saw running consistent sub 8 and 9 second runs. I started looking and almost picked up a starlet, bungthen found a really clean (body wise) Datsun 210 driving down the road and made a deal on it.
So far I've just done some initial weight reduction and minimal changes to the looks. It weighed 1900 at the local truck scale before I removed a few items IE: bumpers, sound deadening, rear seat, and some small stuff. It should weigh around 1830 after the parts I deducted.
The engine is built and waiting for the day. It's a 9.5:1 2.0 with with eagle rods, wiseco pistons, kiggly springs, crower 272 cams etc. I'll be tunigng with tunerpro initially and then going to DSMlink after I get a few miles on it.
The rear end will be a nine inch ford using ladder bars and coil overs.
Against my nature, I'll be going with a turbo 400 transmission. I'd really like to keep it a clutch car, but 8th mile racing is just to quick for it .
The plan right now is to get the rear suspension done first, hopefully in the next month. Then do the cage (just going ten point with subframe and out riggers). Will probably blow up the current engine with a couple fogger nozzles
here are some pics of the car after doing a little work and a vid of my black car. The black car may also get a swap in it at some point.
Interesting day today. I picked up a 4g64 and trans out of a mighty max. Not sure how well the trans will work, but it'll certainly speed up the swap. I'm going to have to look into what is required to adapt the DOHC head. I've heard that it can be bolted on directly to the stock shortblock? It doesn't look like it to me. It would be very high compression and the valve reliefs are not correct. With E85, I can handle the compression, but the valves are another story.
I do hope I can at least get some good runs out of it with this combo before I install the narrowblock combo. I really would like to continue to use the 4g64 bc it's more displacement, but I can't find an auto adapter.
DOHC on a 4G64 is easily accomplished. Depending on what year your block and head are will determine what mods are needed.
No matter what you need the correct timing belt - order it for a 1994 DOHC 4G64 Galant. You CAN use a 4G63 belt but you'll have some issues with the slack (4G64 block is 6mm taller I believe). Plus you'll need some adjustable cam gears to correctly degree-in the cams, or at the very least the CORRECT 4G64 stock cam gears from a 1994 Galant that had DOHC. Or you can "re-mark" 4G63 cam gears and they'll work fine.
The 4G64 block also does NOT have oil-squirters - something most people call needless. I doubt you'll have issues without them, but a decent machine shop can drill the bosses for you.
If you have a (pretty rare) 6-bolt 4G64 and a 6-bolt head, just bolt it on and go.
If you have a 7-bolt 4G64 (very common block) and have a 6-bolt head, then you have to block of a few passages before you bolt it down.
If you have a 7-bolt block AND head, it all works. Bolt on and go.
A LOT of info can be had at DSMtuners.com in regards to this. There's really nothing special about it. Besides the taller deck the 4G64 block is exactly the same.
I would suggest grabbing at the very least a set of forged pistons. Not because of the compression, as a lot of E85 engines are running higher compression than what you would be, but because the NT design has thinner ring lands which like to crack under some abuse. I'm sure you could get away with some mild boost levels and a safe tune, but I doubt it'll last if you push it hard.
That should get you started. As a side note I firmly believe in tapping the passages you intend to block off and run a plug down them, as opposed to welding them or pressing freeze plugs into the holes.
I do have acces to the galant cam sprockets. It is a 6bolt wide block and I have a few 6 bolt heads.
I was concerned about the piston to valve clearance since the pisonys are for a 2 valve. I'm assuming that they clear if it's been done.
I have read up a little and I'll certainly look at your links.
I was only thinking about putting it together as is in order to exposure the swap. I hadn't planned on building another engine (since I've already got a 2.0 ready) but, it was there and starting off with the 5speed is also appealing to expositor the swap.
What I did notice is that the only way I'd want to build the 4g64 is with the 156mm rods. And they are a little more $$.
I've been torn about whether to go all in on the first build and just use my built 2.0 and auto trans, or to do the 64 and 5spd. With so much other suspension work and cage to do, I'm leaning towards an easy engine swap initially. I want to be able to race it by April - May. So....
In your case there isn't much to putting it together. The head and block go together like they were meant to.
I have no experience using the stock 2.4L pistons, so I can't attest to the valve clearance. I'm almost positive some guys have ran a stock bottom end so surely there's some info that could be found.
Maybe you can locate a cheap set of 86.5mm Wiseco's, used, and just swap the pistons? I've known several guys who have used a drill-hone to scuff the cylinders and use new pistons without issue. It's a little ghetto but I did that to one of my own motors with no problems. That would avoid a potential valve clearance problem and also leave you with a stronger set of pistons meant to handle boost.
Joined: 22 Feb 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
LOVE this project. My 510 project is on the back burner right now, but I hope to get back to it next month.
Those PR guys love classic Japanese cars for drag racing. Info for their cars might be tough to come by, but there should be plenty of examples to learn from. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on this. I'm not sure my thread has too much helpful info on it, but you might check it out to see if there's anything you can use or anything you've learned that you'd like to pass along.
Feel free to post in Ratsun.net as well. This seems like something they'd like.
_________________ Do it in a Datsun!
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
Thought I'd update this thread since I appreciate all the info I found on here. Took it to the track and made about 8 runs so far. This is the quickest. I did run 135 on a previous run at 10.27. Still using the foot brake as the track is not well prepped and the transbrake boils the tires. I'll be taking it to a better track in the coming weeks. It should go a high 9 pretty easily. Still running stock cams and springs and about 28psi. Thanks to everyone for the help.
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