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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 9:50 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 07 Apr 2004
Posts: 1777
Location: Hereford Zone, MD

BIG UPDATES in Last Page!

Its been really busy the last few months, but I'm finally settling into things out of college. But anyways.... I'm pretty set on the police car theme. I have white doors ready to go on. I think I can get the lights and siren to work too. Just need to finish it up with decals and strobes. If anybody has any ideas on how to get a half of this to be blue, I'd like to know.



the other side:


Everything on the car is best summed up in this spreadsheet. Its good to keep track of every penny so you dont totally spend your life savings on a dumb car. This one has what I consider alot of $$, but for how insane its going to be, its NOTHING.

This is where the spreadsheet used to be...

Here are some of the 240SX rack and pinion stuff. It went together really nice and easy. Still need to do the strut tops.. sort of holding off to see what kind of coilovers some friends of mine can get me in Japan. The steering is adjusted all the way up in the photo. We're extending it maybe 12" because that's how far we're pushing back the driver seat becuase of the floor mount pedals. Engine is moving back as far as we can get it too.. limited only by the oil pan... and that might change to front sump in the future so we can get FARTHER back yet. Right now the shifter sits about 6" farther back than stock, could use a little more, but we'll just make a long shifter for it and bend it to where we need it.



Here is a picture of the turbo next to a stock one...

Here is it on the engine. The "brace" actually supports all the weight (it weighs about 30lbs with wastegate). I'm just holding it on so it doesnt slide off the flange. Still need to redo the whole manifold.


This is just the beginning of the updates and progress. Things JUST started to slow down to a comfortable pace so I can focus finally.


Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Thu Nov 05, 2015 3:00 pm; edited 11 times in total

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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Fabritory
PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:55 pm  Reply with quote
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Congats ....once again you make the rest of us look bad :rolleyes:

Details on that roll cage please


Bushguard and Spotlight? :ph34r:

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Fabritory
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 1:03 am  Reply with quote
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Cams are sooo over rated!




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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 4:29 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Hereford Zone, MD

So are timing belts! (Cant bend valves that arent open)

No updates today. Woke up exhausted.. it happens. Have some wiring harness work to do for some customers tonight or tomorrow, but my "revised" motor mounts will be done tonight.

Oh yeah.. about the motor mounts. I have 6 or 7 laying around, the 2 matching ones arent.. one is all bent up. There are seriously no 2 that are alike... I cant even say where they are all from.. Starions, D50s, I dont even know what's what. I think I had 2 matching ones at one point, but picked up the wrong one off the bench when I made my spacer plates. Bah.. I dunno.

I need minimum a matching pair... so I found one we had cut up from the first swap and I've gotten Brian from MA-motorsports.com to weld it up for me. I'm picking it up tonight and hopefully can get the motor in tomorrow without having to modify my spacer plates.... photos gallore when the motor is in and I can put the turbo on it!

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 9:43 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 07 Apr 2004
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Location: Hereford Zone, MD

Brian W. at MA-motorsports.com did some great welds on my brackets and now the engine sits nice and straight. I've managed to put everyything in this morning to show how its REALLY going to go together. Prepare to be offended!





This next shot shows through the rear radiator ducting straight through the firewall and out the front of the engine bay Very Happy:


Here you can see the shifter location and stuff. We plan on moving the ebrake back as well as making a LONG steering wheel spacer.



I've gotta fix the brakes on the Festiva and do some harnesses today and tomorrow so this might be it for a day or 2. Next step is the transmission crossmember. Two of the RX7 transmissions came with RX7 crossmembers so I'm going to cut one and weld what's left to a starion crossmember. The only real thing that NEEDs to be done is to add angled wings to the SQ crossmember and use the rubber mounts from the RX7. They're suprisingly similar.


Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:01 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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smog
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 8:06 am  Reply with quote
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Any chance you can get my 2 of those cross members fabbed up ? Smile I need rack Very Happy

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 11:35 pm  Reply with quote
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I'll post the measurements and all that shit eventually. Don't really have the ability to make tons of them. Also remember that the brake pedal will need some modifications to work with the 240SX column unless you just replace them with some aftermarket pedals like I'm doing.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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smog
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 6:02 pm  Reply with quote
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Yeah, keep me updated, I really need to do this.

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84, 85, and 86 lancer ex 1800 gsr turbos
81 Challenger "galant" g54bT 14b
87 mirage turbo 4g63t swapped
78 lancer coupe g54bT
88 minicab van estate supercharged
80s hero
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slowquest
PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 10:07 pm  Reply with quote
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Don't get me wrong here, not flaming you at all, but is there a reason for mounting the intercooler flat like that. I'm guessing that your gonna run some sort of fresh air intake in the hood, but then, that is just a guess. I know your wanting to keep your weight centered in the car, just seems like having the i/c up high like that would hurt weight wise, but then again, it only weighs a few pounds. Or maybe your just a little like me, doing it cause it's different :blink:
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carguyf545
PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 12:08 am  Reply with quote
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DJ, i know were there is a blue light bar, what are you willing to $$$$ or trade

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what a nice port job, probally hurt it more than i helped it.
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Fabritory
PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 3:02 am  Reply with quote
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QUOTE (slowquest @ Aug 6 2005, 03:07 AM)
Don't get me wrong here, not flaming you at all, but is there a reason for mounting the intercooler flat like that. I'm guessing that your gonna run some sort of fresh air intake in the hood, but then, that is just a guess. I know your wanting to keep your weight centered in the car, just seems like having the i/c up high like that would hurt weight wise, but then again, it only weighs a few pounds. Or maybe your just a little like me, doing it cause it's different :blink:

look at the length from the turbo outlet to the intercooler.....

Now look at the length from the intake manifold to the intercooler......

Imagine how much faster boost could go from the hot side to the cold side with that set-up


/nuff said

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 12:41 pm  Reply with quote
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Here is the real reason:


There is a large area of low pressure at the front of the hood and alot of high pressure fresh air at the bottom of the airdam (more so with a splitter). With ducting you can route the cold highpressure air to the underside of the intercooler and have low pressure on the top. The result is alot of airflow without the need of a fan. (Air literally blows from high pressure to low pressure). That's why we have wind and breezes. Ever go to the beach and open the hotel doors on the beach side and the other side.. it'll suck a dog outta the room!

The short IC piping and mimimizing of hoseclamps to pop off also helped seal the deal. Also... the IC is high off the ground protecting it from some possible damage and destruction.

The hood will have to be modified, but dont think of it as an intake; its actually an extractor vent.


Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:02 pm; edited 1 time in total

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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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slowquest
PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 1:17 pm  Reply with quote
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You're saying that the blue regions in that graph are low-negative pressure? I'm not big on aero, but that just seems wrong. i think of the car as an airplane wing. lots of drag, ie high-positive pressure, at the header panel, less at the base of the windshield, higher at the top of the windshield, then lowering as it goes across the hatch, until it hits what little spoiler we have, which would raise the pressure. Sad





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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:41 pm  Reply with quote
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That's right.. the air ramps up on the header panel but when its passes the ridge where the hood meets the header panel it creates a low pressure area on the leading edge of the hood. The rear of the hood sees higher pressure building up on the windsheild.. this is how cowl induction hoods work.

Venting the front of the hood will also reduce some front end lift at high speeds.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:49 pm  Reply with quote
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Here is a little description of how far back the engine really is... its really not back far at all, but no radiator makes it looks crazy.. like this:


Its an illusion!

But really, this is how the stock crossmember is set up. We are using the 2 big bolt holes as references. There is also a line marking the center of the where the motor mount lies. I've stacked the photos so you can get a better idea of how much it moved back, with the 240SX crossmember, which I moved forward about an inch for caster reasons, you have the same 2 reference points as before, but now you see how the 240SX mount center is pushed back some and my adapter blocks move me back some as well.


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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 7:01 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Hereford Zone, MD

Here are some neato ones with the white door:



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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 12:02 pm  Reply with quote
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Notice all of the strange angles that come with the RX7 transmission. The engine is straight, the bellhousing is straight and even the shifter is straight, but the transmission mount and case are definatly at an angle.




I could hack up the RX7 and/or Starion transmission crossmembers, but it looks like making one from scratch will be faster. I first made one out of wood to get all the points and angles correct. I then traced its critical points and angles to a piece of wood. This is going to be the template for when I finally get access to a brake. I'll then try to get MA to weld some bracing to the front and back (think of an 'I' beam). It will use the RX7 transmission bushings.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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rarson
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 8:33 pm  Reply with quote
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QUOTE (slowquest @ Aug 6 2005, 06:17 PM)
You're saying that the blue regions in that graph are low-negative pressure? I'm not big on aero, but that just seems wrong. i think of the car as an airplane wing. lots of drag, ie high-positive pressure, at the header panel, less at the base of the windshield, higher at the top of the windshield, then lowering as it goes across the hatch, until it hits what little spoiler we have, which would raise the pressure.  Sad

Just a little info on the aero... The air likes to move straight. Wherever the car curves away from the straight line, it creates a low pressure area (roof is a great example). Wherever the car curves into the air, high pressure (base of the windshield).

This is of course putting it in very simple terms, but it should help you understand what is going on. I've spent a good amount of time studying the aerodynamic profile of the second-gen RX-7 and it looks very similar to the Starion's.

DJ, I'm a little curious about your rad ducting setup. First of all, I noticed the shifter is right in the way. Also, I like your idea of ducting out the back of the car (I am doing the same thing on my RX-7! Low pressure area, perfect spot for it). However, instead of ducting the hot air to the back of the car, with my car the idea I had was to relocate the radiator roughly where the gas tank now sits. The rad would be tilted towards the front of the car (same tilt as the stock rad mount if you've ever looked at one in an FC).

Now I realize the problem that the underside of the car would be a low-pressure area... especially with the underbody tray that I'm creating to smooth out the bottom of the car. However, I plan on ducting a path for air underneath the car up to the radiator.

Here is a quick picture of what I'm talking about. I didn't measure or anything when I drew the lines so it is a bit off. The rad will actually sit a bit further back (not with the diff right in the way). I just drew it to get the idea down.
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rarson
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 8:38 pm  Reply with quote
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Here is the picture.

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2005 8:33 pm  Reply with quote
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The shifter in the way? I'm not ducting air from the engine bay to the back of the car. That'd be silly. I am ducting air in on the front of the rear fender flares to a radiator which sits in a box in the spare tire well. I should have a welder and a rear bar by next week. That's what Im using as my upper radiator support. It should be at a pretty steep angle (almost flat) leaning towards the front of the car.

Does that make more sense?

As for the comparision to the FC... they're similar (90% of cars are similar though). The starion has a more extreme high / low region up front though due to the angles and "facets" that mitsubishi likes to use so much.

With your design, I'm not quite sure if that's a good idea to duct from the underside. The tunnel you create will actually be pretty low pressure (think venturi tunnel on a F1 car). You might have a situation with more low pressure under the car than out the back. Plus you've got a differential in the way.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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rarson
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 3:20 am  Reply with quote
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Ah, I get it. "This next shot shows through the rear radiator ducting straight through the firewall and out the front of the engine bay" That's what confused me.

I know from the drawing it looks like the diff would be in the way, but it's not. It looks that way because the crappy freehand approach I took to making the drawing. Basically, the gas tank will come out and the rad will be mounted near the vicinity of where the tank used to sit (behind the differential). I agree that underneath the car will be low pressure and it certainly would make it more difficult to duct, but I couldn't think of another way to do it. Now that you mention it though, my rear fenders flare out a bit behind the doors, so maybe I could do something along the lines of two large NACA ducts on them. If I follow the doors and keep the air moving straight into the ducts, there should be plenty of cooling available. This car is being setup for drag racing anyway, so cooling for such a short period of time shouldn't be much of an issue... especially since I'm planning to run the car without a turbo.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:39 pm  Reply with quote
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I dont think my pictures work anymore, but oh well. They're outdated by now anyways. Eventually this will all go on the website. I'm still working on the car. It just takes time and patience. Hopefully I'll have it running in a few weeks. I ordered a 4x12x24" intercooler that should be here soon. Right now I have the motor pulled. I have to mount the flywheel correctly (more than 2 bolts) and I have to seal up the bellhousing to the transmission. I also have to "surface" the flywheel and clean up the clutch so it can attempt to hold the torque until I get a decent clutch.

I'm really working on pedals, the friewall, ducting, AN lines and fittings, water lines, etc. I REALLY need to get the cage done soon. Need a trailer to do that though. Once that's done things should come together FAST.

I am going to NEED coilovers to drive the thing though so that's a big concern right now too.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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peregrine
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 9:59 pm  Reply with quote
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cool dilly-o. i just ordered my intercooler today too. ill update my thread when i get it. how close are you to firing it?

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Fabritory
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 1:37 pm  Reply with quote
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Mike we're in the in same boat with the clutch situation

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 3:31 pm  Reply with quote
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I still need to make my exhaust manifold and intake manifold. I'm waiting for the Intercooler to arrive for the intake manifold due to how I am mounting it with such short piping. I am going to test TEST TEST my wiring this weekend and do all that other stuff I mentioned.

Depending on how the exhaust manifold progress goes, maybe 2 weeks. I'm sort of planning on having Matt do the exhaust manifold stuff just so its done and we can fire up the motor and maybe dyno it. I have a strange feeling its going to crack either way. Long term plans involve using my SS flange to make a NICE tubular manifold as a backup/replacement for this one.

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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 11:52 pm  Reply with quote
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We pulled the engine so we could do some engine bay modifications as well as have the motor inside to do the fabing of various engine parts and plumbing.

Here is our nice firewall box. This is what we'll mount the box behind the motor too. Also, note the new placement of the battery. Dry cell batteries are neat. And I can still use the wipers!

Gained a few inches of steering angle by moving in the RHD steering protrusion. Metal doesnt like to bend this way.. and it shows. We'll probably just cover it in some sort of heat sheild anyways so its not a biggie.


Here is a photo of Matt riding the 4G64.


I was pretty deadlocked with this exhaust manifold thing. The SSAutochrome manifold is really junky. We had cut the flange a few months ago thinking we could port it out and slip it in and get a good weld.. well, that wasnt going to happen. We were about to order some stainless tubing and start over when we decided to just weld it together and hope for the best. If anything it really helped with morale with this project.





Further boosting of morale was done tonight when I found that my 12x24x4" intercooler had shown up! I couldnt (and was too tired to) start modifying the tubing to fit better, but you can get the general idea. I guess I need to get dad to make my throttle body flange ASAP!


Matt also welded the braces on the transmission crossmember. I think it will be plenty strong now. I made 2 of these. One needs some more slots and holes but all the hard work is done.


Last edited by DJpowerHaus on Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:03 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:51 am  Reply with quote
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The IC will fit BTW. See what I've got to work with?



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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
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That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Fabritory
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 3:29 am  Reply with quote
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Let's see her modified rack

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mattmartindrift
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 8:27 am  Reply with quote
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yeah! i'm suprised he hasn't posted that. I think he's a little worried about how well it'll work, we've got a tad bit of camber and bumpsteer issues to figure out.

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2000_turbo
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 2:22 pm  Reply with quote
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I've got the same I/C DJPowerhaus! It's a very efficient I/C. One side of the I/C is warm (duh) and the other side of the I/C is always cold, there is even some moisture on it.



Old vs new.




Gr,



Martyn.
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4G63Turbo
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:45 am  Reply with quote
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BUMP for updates and pics.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 1:57 pm  Reply with quote
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The only real picture is on the homepage at the bottom. Other than that its been sitting at the shop waiting for a cage for fucking 4 months.

We did change the intercooler setup to be where the stock radiator would go. This way we can use a stock hood, and maybe even one fo those carbon 83 hoods. I'm now trying to make the car look mostly stock, other than it being REALLY low. We are going to use a clutch fan of of one of the trucks behind the intercooler. This will be nice for drifting when you're running high boost and RPM, but your forward speed is low.

But yeah.. I've gotten REALLY depressed the last few months becuase of the lack of progress. Having this board up will help get me to focus again.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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saturnshadow
PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 6:40 pm  Reply with quote
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yeah i was thinking about putting the rad in the back, but i was going to take out the side windows and put clear plactic ducts to it.

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 10:03 pm  Reply with quote
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Updates! Here are some of the latest photos. Nothing really looks different to most people, but oh well. More work has been done these last few weeks than than in 6 months. Everythings just together / appart / together / appart, etc. I'm finally starting to feel like there is some progress.


Here is my new firewall. I copied it from Smog on SQC. He's doing a 1JZ swap. This was MUCH easier to do than my old setup with the aluminum angle around the hole. Much easier to seal up and much safer. I might one day cut some holes in it to access things on the back of the engine. For now though I can reach behind the engine with lots of space to spare. You can also see where I drilled the welds to remove the brackets in the engine bay. I'll be sanding and painting them eventually. Also there is my front engine support. Its not meant to hold the engine up, just to keep it from torquing... we are redoing the engine mounts to be solid now though. And we gave up on the rear radiator and we modified the water pipe to point forward. That is a very full are of the engine and I'm sure I'll curse it in a few months. And look at my poor NEW tensioner. Hasnt seen one revolution of the engine and its already rusty.


Here is my fuel cell.. 20gallons. I'm not sure how I didnt realize how big it was going to be. The biggest problem is that it basically extends from the rear frame all the way to the rear crossmember. I cant even lower it becuase it SITS on the rear crossmember. At this height the fuel pumps and sump sits right below the rear frame. At least it'll make it easier to mount them up. I'll be filling in the surrounding area with carbon fiber. Also you can see the few bits of cage I have done so far.


Here is the seat (Momo Corsa ($40 used) and a nice Momo suede steering wheel I sprung for. I also you can see the 240SX steering column bolted to the Starion mounts (I drilled 2 holes and made a little bracket at the firewall). I also have a 10" steering wheel spacer (yowza!) and an extender on the adjustment bar so I can get out without much trouble and without removing the steering wheel. The yellow you see in the door is from the plasma cutter. I have the glass sliding up and down the stock rail held in with a pin (or down with a pin or anywhere else I chose to drill a hole). The RX7 shifter is boxed in and is already starting to get a little rust on it. I still need to patch up the stock shifter hole and make a shifter that will extend back a few inches. The ebrake has also been moved back and tilted up, that is what you see at the bottom center. Not pretty, but it'll look better with paint and maybe carbonfiber accents.

I'm waiting for some of the last fittings to come in. Once I get those, the radiator setup and the engine mounts done, I should be ready to almost start this thing. I'm aiming for early April to run it. Beyond that it will just be a matter of getting all the pedals and brakes in. I plan on driving it o my birthday, May 1st. After that.. I'll have 2 months to tune it, paint it, make all the CF parts and hopefully make it something worth showing off at the SQC Pigeon Forge meet this 4th of July.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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peregrine
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:29 pm  Reply with quote
Too Much Time on His Hands


Joined: 28 Dec 2004
Posts: 492

bout fuckin time. i was wondering if youd ever get back to work on that thing. hurry up and get it running. im sick of being the only one here with a running rwd swap Laughing

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smog
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:00 pm  Reply with quote
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Looking great man. What are you doing for pedals? I've been thinking about going with a tilton pedal assembly for my clutch and brake,

I'm thinking about running this setup, but I need to take a closer look at my car and see what will fit best.
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=400&m=b

Love the way that steering wheel sits also, I need to do something about mine sitting way too far forward. I can't wait to see this thing running. My goal is mid april on my project, then I start the 4g64 in my other car Smile.

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84, 85, and 86 lancer ex 1800 gsr turbos
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87 mirage turbo 4g63t swapped
78 lancer coupe g54bT
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:17 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 07 Apr 2004
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Location: Hereford Zone, MD

That's a wicked pedal setup. Ideal really. Must cost a fortune. If my budget racecar is going to cost me $10,000 I dont want to even see the bill on yours... and by mid April no less Very Happy.

==================================================

So.. updates:
Ordered an RX7 pressure plate (ACT Xtreme) and 6 puck unsprung disk (ACT). Saved $50 just by saying it was for an RX7 and not a Starion (they're the exact same part). Also got a new pilot bearing for the Fidanza. Screw a new TOB. I've got enough and they'll be fine.

Ordered an AFCO 22x18.5x3" radiator. Wont have to modify IC pipes. Wont have to make the old brass Z radiator work just to have to redo it after I smash up the front end for the first time (it'll happen evntually).

Fitted my sidebars. Pretty sweet. I wont hit my elbows! and as far as my steering wheel tilts up with the extender, getting in and out will be easy! Won't have to remove the steering wheel just to get in and out like some people.

Matt put my steering wheel spacer on a lathe and trued it up some more. Should be damn near dead on now unless the Momo wheel itself doesnt run true.

Mounted my pedals to a 2x4 which I'll mount and probably use for a little while (rapid prototype!). Not nearly as much knee/steering wheel interference as I expected. I'll cover it up so people dont laugh. Or I'll just find some aluiminum stock to replace it some day. Matt's going to try to help me get some -3 braided lines and fittings.

I'm putting my slightly off center engine mounts back in so I can run it.. I'll make new / straighter mounts later.

Brian at MA welded up my rear water pipe. I was amazed to find that it still barely clears the modified firewall.. I have to unbolt the engine and transmission and move it forward to pull the pipe.. what a pain. Stupid water pipes. I guess I could make an access panel on my firewall if I wanted to. Had him weld a little piece of 1/4" flat stock that I tapped for a Bosch water temp sender (240SX temp sensor is the same). Pressure tested.. siliconed.. mounted. YES!

I'm going to run this damn thing in 2 weeks or I'll start kicking people!

Anyone know anything about motorcycle coil on plug wiring? I dont know which is (+) and which is (-). I'm doing the rest of my wiring next weekend I hope.

Here are some HUGE pictures to look at if you've got the pipe: http://projectzerog.com/images/temp

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:45 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Hereford Zone, MD

AFCO 22x18.5x3" radiator fits like a glove. I am using a fan and shroud from a Volvo. Not sure what but I got it from Scuba Steve. It was recalled becuase of some circuity issues which can be eliminated. Its made by Bosch and looks top notch. I had to trim the shroud to make it fit REALLY tight. Right now its held on snug with the water pipes themselves and 1 zip tie. Clears the pulleys by about 3/4" now. I have the IC, radiator and fan all behind the lower core support and in front of the engine. Water pipes were really easy to make with stuff I found around the shop.

I did find the wiring of the coils and did that up. I had 2 wires pull out of my weatherpack connects so I'm pretty upset with that. Need to take it appart somehow now.

Put the intake, exhaust, throttle body, timing belt, pulles, accessory belt on. Welded up my turbo bracing. List is getting shorter and shorter!

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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mattmartindrift
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 4:21 pm  Reply with quote
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PICTURES, BECAUSE IT LOOKS INSANO!!!

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sander
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:41 pm  Reply with quote
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Looks good Mike! Id like to check it out sometime!

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 10:28 pm  Reply with quote
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Scuba Steve helped me pull my subframe (with poly bushings, suspension techniques sway bar and springs and blown KYB GR2s, and fresh brake pads) from white car. Pressure washed it, ran to the shop, put it on the racecar. Looks nice now that its not monster trucking. Still not as low as I envisioned. I'm too used to looking at 240s I guess. I also started to rewire. I looked at my wiring from 6 months ago and just wasnt pleased with it. I went back to the drawing board and ended up wtih basiclly the same drawing... oh well. I did remove some of the plugs that I had in there. It would have made more of a rats next to unplug the harness than to label the pins for the junction strips I have. Looks mega messy now, but I'll test that it all works before I start shortening wires. Still need to get my turbo oil drain and oil cooler fittings to stop leaking. JB weld... and if that doesnt work... trashcan.

More small things ordered tonight. $90 for some hood pins, trunk latches, fuse blocks. Oh well, that's how it goes.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 9:51 pm  Reply with quote
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Got enough wiring done to flip the ignition switch and turn on the fuel pumps. Found 1 leaky line so I'm going to have to fix that tomorrow. Nothing worse than coming to work in an office smelling like gas. I have fuses now! YIPPY! And my battery still holds charge since when I bought it. Should be able to get most of the wiring finished tomorrow. Then there are the last bits until I start the engine!

Also I ordered my harnesses.. some 300ZX brakes are in the shop waiting to be rebuilt (they were remanufactured and blew the seals the first press of the pedal!) Need to get brake lines and power steering lines sorted out as well.

Trying to get it on the track May 6th.. this is a TALL order! But we'll try. Tomorrow I'm not going to forget to get the camera.. so next week I'll have some pictures.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 10:27 pm  Reply with quote
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I forgot where I put the camera.... haha.. pics when I find it.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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saturnshadow
PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:24 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: vally in cali

DOH.... CAMERA!!!
yeah i want to see it. been puting in apps for a 2nd job hoping i can get my cars done.

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mattmartindrift
PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 9:56 pm  Reply with quote
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he found the camera, with dead batteries, now he's slacking!

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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:33 pm  Reply with quote
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You dont want to see these photos. They suck. Pictures dont do that amount accomplished in the last few weeks justice.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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mattmartindrift
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2006 8:29 pm  Reply with quote
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IT RAN FOR 3 SECONDS!!!!

But it had no water, so I shut it off, and it was hardly running, but it fired!!!

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peregrine
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2006 10:59 pm  Reply with quote
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post haste!

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smog
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:50 pm  Reply with quote
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You can do it! btw, its past may 6th Laughing

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84, 85, and 86 lancer ex 1800 gsr turbos
81 Challenger "galant" g54bT 14b
87 mirage turbo 4g63t swapped
78 lancer coupe g54bT
88 minicab van estate supercharged
80s hero
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:29 pm  Reply with quote
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Still no photos, but when I get them it will be worth the wait.

I did get it running this weekend finally. I had the CAS in correctly with the timing marks lined up. I, for shits and giggles, but it off 180 degrees... and it starts right up.

3 months of down time due to that.

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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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