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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:07 pm  Reply with quote
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Well, this project has been ongoing for the past year and a half or so, since I am currently in college I don't have much time to work on the car, but I figured I'd start this thread to possibly modivate myself and share with you all the research I've put into this project. I have the wiring harness from a 1991 dsm and my cylinder head here at college with me and I am in the process of hacking/ porting the two respectively. My goal is to have an extremely clean installation. I have limited pictures right now, but I'll let you all know what Im using and why I went with it.

I had a 1990 eagle talon tsi awd which i had sent the motor off to be built for. The guy split with both my engine and my money so I ended up putting a 1993 motor from a fwd laser I parted out into it. Then when my conquest dropped a valve, I started driving the talon again. One drunk driver later I have a conquest and a 1993 7 bolt 1g motor. Wanting a clean install I've never been a fan of things like hacking the firewall, so I didn't want to do that just for a cas. I found that the 7 bolt 1g block will accept a 2g crank angle sensor, so all I needed was a 2g head to accept the cam angle sensor. Next was the intake. I had a forrester intake manifold, but found out this was obstructed by the brake booster. Looking at dyno sheets from evo's I've noticed the stock intake manifold is not only an extremely good performer, but also extremely light and oem looking. This is currently at my machinist getting the injector bungs removed since the evo manifold has a set on top of the ones on the cylinder head, and their design does not allow for a proper seal. Both of these issuse will be adressed and we'll be in business. For now I'll be using the evo III 16g I have sitting around with an evo III exhaust manifold, but hopefully I'll get a gt28r or gt30r later on. The intercooler from my talon wasn't damaged, as well as the fluidyne aluminum radiator, so both will be reused, allowing from extremely short upper and lower intercooler piping. I have an evo 8 maf from a 1989 mirage turbo project I picked up a while back, as well as 1000cc fic injectors off my talon, which both will be managed by dsmlink v3. The rest of the fuel system is currently TBA, but I do have a 16 gallon fuel cell and aeromotive a1000 fuel pump with full 10 -an ss fuel feed lines and a 10 -an rail and 10 -an FPR with a 6 -an return. Most likely those will be used with the two 10 -an fuel filters. Since I've decided to redo the wiring completely of the entire car, the battery will be relocated and the interior will be redone. Most likely I will remove the rear seats, since I have to cut the factory seat rails anyways so I'll finally fit in the car.

Finally I have an innovate LC-1 wideband o2 sensor, act 2600, k&n 9" long 4.5" dia filter, all the piping needed, 1g bov, dejon tool bov solenoid, apexi avc-r electronic boost controller, some turbo timers (haven't decided which one to use), and probably some other stuff. The bottom end will be stock for now, while the head will be getting kiggly springs, kelford 272's, ferrea comp plus valves (stock size), and crower cam gears, with arp head studs and a mitsu multi layer metal head gasket. My plans (along with the above mentioned turbo) is to build a road racing conquest that revs high and makes peak torque as high as possible.

What I'm not sure about is what I should do about the final drive. With the t-56 and stock LSD rear diff, I know I wont have the gearing I want. Idealy, I would want 6th gear to top out at about 180-200 mph at 9-9.5k rpms. According to my calculations this would require a rear diff with gears above 5.00, basically unheard of. Hopefully the aftermarket for the t-56 has some options for the final drive gear to change the ratio so that more gears are useful.

anyways, onto the pictures. Heres how the car sits now, thats a random 1g head on it, wont be used in the final build.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0334.jpg
heres when the car ran, so pretty
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_9524.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_9505.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_9486.jpg
heres the aftermath of the dropped valve
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/PIC-0074.jpg
thought I had more of the cylinder head and pistons and such, but I guess not. Anyways, thoughts and questions. I'm not on here much, but hopefully this boy will get running soon.

Also, I've got a rather simple solution to the coolant issue that this swap presents, so if anyone needs help with that I'll tell what I did and why. Basically the throttle body, turbo, and heater core are all bypasses in a dsm, so they will be in my conquest.


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:01 pm; edited 5 times in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:25 pm  Reply with quote
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found those other pictures of the destruction from the dropped valve for those who like looking at the failure of the 4g54b

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_3472.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/PIC-0077.jpg

ps, I still have the ecu, knock box, and wiring harness from my conquest for sale.


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:02 pm; edited 2 times in total
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4g63mightymax
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 6:27 am  Reply with quote
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TsTKl wrote:

Also, I've got a rather simple solution to the coolant issue that this swap presents, so if anyone needs help with that I'll tell what I did and why. Basically the throttle body, turbo, and heater core are all bypasses in a dsm, so they will be in my conquest.


Yes Please. Smile

-Jeremy
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 8:41 pm  Reply with quote
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4g63mightymax wrote:
TsTKl wrote:

Also, I've got a rather simple solution to the coolant issue that this swap presents, so if anyone needs help with that I'll tell what I did and why. Basically the throttle body, turbo, and heater core are all bypasses in a dsm, so they will be in my conquest.


Yes Please. Smile

-Jeremy


I'll try and make a paint doc of this later, but for now I'll explain it in words.

The coolant from the back of the head will make a sharp 90 degree bend like most builds do, but it will be towards the intake side of the engine, with the thermostat and radiator cap both close to the valve cover. Under this there will be a tube which splits towards the heater/turbo (on the cylinder head side of the thermostat) and then above the intake manifold towards the throttle body. The heater core and the turbo will both recycle back into the lower radiator pipe, which will be feed from a d-50 style water pump (get a dsm water pump and pull the freeze plug from the forward side and plug the other side) while the throttle body will come across the front of the engine and dump there as well. Then the main portion of the tube coming off the back of the head will go under the intake manifold and dump into the radiator like usual. This prevents the exhaust from heating up the coolant, while allowing the factory bypass systems to stay intact. It also prevents complicated lines going everywhere unnecessarily.

anyways, on to the new pictures!

bought a tranny today.
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0305.jpg
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0304.jpg

built a harness for the innovative LC-1. Gonna include the other side into the wiring harness of the car while I rewire the thing.
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0303.jpg


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:03 pm; edited 3 times in total
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sr71sss
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:46 pm  Reply with quote
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I've always wanted a conquest but could not find a clean one, I was going with a 2.4 into mines one day.

btw your car looks like the one I saw in daly city a few years when I use to live there, it was near mission st?

conrad
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 2:56 am  Reply with quote
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the previous owner lived in concord, I bought the car in early 2008 if I recall correctly. I don't go to daly city often, but I'm from orinda and the previous owner is from concord so its possible. I know there are a lot of conquests that look like mine though.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 4:28 am  Reply with quote
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my manifold is almost done!!!!!!!!! after like 4+ weeks of waiting for it to be welded up (and ONLY welded up, nothing more) and paying WAY too much, I was able to finish up my manifold mostly today. I don't have any before pictures, only after, but I am excited to see how amazingly well the manifold fits/looks in the engine bay. that cylinder head is just a dummy head, I won't be using it for the build.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0374.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0375.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0376.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0383.jpg


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 7:24 pm  Reply with quote
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I've been really lagging on this whole project lately because of my girlfriend and school, but I've decided to set a goal on the project. MOD 2010, July 10th. I will not be doing the cage, fuel cell, fuel pump, fuel lines, battery relocation, and a few other things to expedite the process, but the wiring will still be extremely time consuming. Everything in the engine bay which is mechanical is almost figured out completely, and once the cylinder head is done it should be all ready. Bill said my bell housing should be done soon, so by the time that comes in I should have the whole project together in a state where I can slap on the bell housing and a starter motor to see if it will run. The driveshaft and exhaust will be the last things on the list, but shouldn't be too bad. The wiring will begin next week when I visit my parents, I hope to get most of it done, with the gauges being the hardest part. I also hope to get the cooling systems done and mounted at that time as well. Were talking oil cooler, power steering cooler, radiator, and intercooler.

More pictures when I have them.


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:04 pm; edited 1 time in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 10:14 pm  Reply with quote
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so i've been fairly busy working on the conquest this week, and I was able to do the following:

most of the wiring in the engine bay is complete, I need to figure out the ignition system a little,
turbo is all set up and ready to go, the intercooler pipes and everything have been preliminarily mocked up
all cooling except radiator have been mocked up, I haven't decided what to o about that yet,
I picked up some 4.75 gears for the rear end, that should make this transmission very usable.
my bell housing is almost done, when I get that I can start working on the trransmission installation
decided I have to relocate the alternator, and realized I have to run non oem oil filters, as the oem one is too tall for removal and replacement
probably forgetting other stuff...

I hope to complete all the wiring this week and figure out the cooling, then next week its back to the cylinder head, the port work is done and I just have to convince my machinist to actually do the work.

i'll upload a picture tonight
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Fri Jun 18, 2010 3:57 am  Reply with quote
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I should have taken more pictures, but its mostly just wiring that you can see changed. Other stuff has changed, but when your mostly doing wiring, progress is slow.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_04111.jpg


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:04 pm; edited 1 time in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:11 pm  Reply with quote
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well, I've made some good progress, however I don't think I'll be making it to mod this year. Its frustrating to be so close but limited by slight financial limiations. However, it is what it is, the car should be done soon, I'm looking for a job to push it over that slight edge needed to finish it. I think due to not being able to reach the mod goal I will be relocating the battery, as well as doing some repainting of the engine bay. Tomorrow I plan on doing a lot of cleaning and preparing for the new transmission. Bill's been super busy, but was able to send my bell housing out and it should be here thursday. I can't thank him enough for working with me on the longer shaft version, as well as designing it to work with the internal slave the car came equipt with. I know camaro people have trouble with this slave dying frequently, so I might switch to a different type of internal, but to me any internal is better than an external.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:49 am  Reply with quote
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bell housing came today. I got the dash off and removed almost all of the A/C related wiring and vacuum stuff. I'm planning on using mechanical controls for the heater/fan, since that whole digital thing didn't work and added a lot of weight. there are at least four thermometers in the cabin,... such overkill. Anyways, the heater can't ever be stuck on anymore which is good, and its not like I ever use the A/C, fresh air is so much nicer.

on to the pictures. By the way, Bill is a saint. I am willing to bet he barely breaks even on the work he does, which is all very labor intensive. Hopefully if I get a job sometime this summer I'll save up some extra cash and send it his way, he deserves it.

This is the bell housing on the transmission with the starter plate sitting on it.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0440.jpg

this is the 6 puck he sold me on top of the oem t-56 clutch and pressure plate. I can see why people who used the oem bell housing and those fidanza flywheels had to make space for the starter motor.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0439.jpg

I spent a good amount of time cleaning the underside of the car since I don't want to put a clean transmission in a dirty tunnel. Hopefully I'll think of how I'm doing the A/C and finish the wiring and everything so I can start testing stuff out. Not sure where the battery will be going yet. I don't want it in the trunk though.

think I'm gonna go with a 4g37 thermostat since I'm not using the 1g cas I'll have room to route it towards the intake side of the motor.


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:05 pm; edited 2 times in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:39 pm  Reply with quote
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well I took a little vacation, but now I'm back and working on the conquest again. While I was gone I picked up an intercooler reducer to connect my j-pipe to the rest of my intercooler piping, had my flywheel machined and resurfaced, picked up a 4g37 thermostat housing, and probably did some other stuff. The wiring is almost done, I ran out of electrical tape and otherwise would have been able to finish it. then I sorted a large amount of my bolts and found a bunch of E bolts, which was cool and I wanted to see how good my phone could take a microish photo of.

i ordered a bunch of parts for the car today too. the non abs brake line is 10.46 from the dealer apparently. I'm going to do the balance shaft removal with all oem parts as well. The master cylinder seal kit was 80 bucks though so I passed on that one. There's other stuff I'm probably forgetting. pictures:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0457.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0455.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0458.jpg


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:07 am  Reply with quote
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Hey, I thought I'd do a pretty through update today since I'm not sure what exactly I've said in this before and what I haven't. I've been researching a lot of information and found some pretty good ways to do some things. A lot of this will probably be repetitive; however this is the full scoop.

I decided to use the 1993 7 bolt motor I had lying around, partly because it was the only 4g63 I had and partly because the 1g 7 bolts are just superior motors. Certain aspects on the 6 bolt are better, however these are all things which can be done to a 7 bolt to make it just as good as the respective 6 bolt, such as adding a main girdle. I was only able to get the passenger side mighty max motor mounts so the driver's side has been modified. I have the evo 3 oil filter housing for this motor; however I will be switching to the evo 8 unit. This is because the oil lines for the evo 8 unit are bigger, and the filter is pointed in a downward direction allowing for easy less messy oil changes, and since the sub frame prevents me from changing the filter with the evo 3 unit, it had to go anyways. Another cool thing is I can use evo oil pans, however due to the fact that the evo has its motor facing 90 degrees from mine, the aftermarket oil pans for these cars are useless. The baffles are in the wrong place and overall it's just not a superior design for rwd racing other than the increase in oil capacity. The balance shafts will be eliminated, and the oem front case of the 7 bolt block allows for a 2g style crank angle sensor. This has been wired in and the only thing I needed now was the vastly cheaper 2g in cam gear style cam angle sensor. For this reason and this reason alone, I decided to use a 2g head. The only one I could get my hands on needed to be rebuilt, so I spent a couple months porting it while it was apart. It will be getting ferrea valves and kiggly valve springs, which mainly what is holding the project up right now. Since I am using the evo 8 intake manifold, I was able to block off the egr on the cylinder head by simply tapping and plugging the round port. I'll have to see what size tap it was, but no drilling was needed. I have a galant valve cover going on this car purely because it's the only one I have. I also somehow have an evo 8 oil cap, which is the only oil cap I have with a good gasket, so I'll be using that as well. The intake manifold is obviously an evo 8 intake manifold, which required some welding. Since the evo's have crappy map sensors from the factory, I will be wiring in an aem ems map sensor after I smog the car. This will use RRE's adapter, found here: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/mdp_adapter/mdpadapt-01.jpg. Attached to it is the stock 1991-1994 style throttle body clocked 90 degrees to allow the use of the conquest throttle cable. I extensively trimmed and modified the manifold so as to make it lighter and so I could fit the coil pack in its depths. For now since I am going to make a pitiful attempt at smogging this car in California, I will be using a 2g fuel rail with 2g fuel pressure regulator. This is because the 2g rail can have the fuel pressure regulator on either side. The exhaust side is being kept extremely simple, evo III exhaust, turbo, and custom o2 housing which will bolt up to a 2g awd downpipe. The thermostat is a point of interest. From what I've seen, it is best to use the 1990 thermostat from a California car, not a federal car. This is because the federal cars had an extra vacuum line thing which made the body of the unit wider and pushed it farther against the fire wall. Since I am not using the 1g style cam angle sensor, my 1.8 4g37 upper thermostat housing can point towards the intake side of the car. I am slightly worried that the expansion tank port on this housing will be in the way of the firewall, however that is nothing a welder can't solve. As for the plumbing itself of the water lines, I used a stock 1990 turbo under turbo water pipe routed underneath the intake manifold to attach the thermostat to the upper radiator outlet. Worked perfectly except that I had to cut and weld the two holes on the unit shut. Because of this I suggest getting a 1990 non turbo water pipe, which will only have one hole which requires welding. I was then able to use the pipe which connects the factory conquest brake booster to the factory conquest abs unit to attach the thermostat housing to the throttle body. This too will be routed under the intake manifold and was the perfect length and bend. The heater core will be fed by the factory heater core hoses, although cut and rotated. The heater return line will go underneath the intake manifold as well, making three pipes under the intake manifold (small, medium, and large ironically). This will then have a port added so that the throttle body can dump its coolant back into the pipe. As for where I got the pipe from, I'm not sure, but I think it's off the g54b I pulled out of the car. It's a very large L shape with two ports coming off of one end. I've decided that I will be using a dsm style water pump, although I will be welding the tip of another dsm under turbo water pipe onto it. This way the lower radiator will slide/clamp right on, and I can have one added port for the line coming across the front of the motor from the heater core/throttle body. The turbo water return line will meet here as well. As you might have guessed, the abs is being removed (I ordered a new non abs brake line from the dealer, 10.46, part number MB193945) however I have found that unlike newer cars which use a cross wheel braking system, the two cylinders in the brake master cylinder of our cars are dedicated to front and back wheels respectively. I have a feeling this is due to the fact that the abs system is rear wheel single phase only, but never the less, it makes for a MUCH easier way to regulate brake bias. Since your front wheels do most of the braking and you never want to compromise your overall braking capacity there, installing a valve which can be controlled from the inside of the car in this single line going back to the rear wheels can reduce hydraulic brake pressure going to both rear wheels, thus moving the brake bias forwards, or rearwards. It's a crude system, but some adjustment is always better than none. As for the transmission, I could never do a better job describing what you need beyond what Bill can do. The only thing probably worth mentioning is that if you get the transmission I got (the long shaft or LS-1 t-56 out of a camaro) you will need to get a shifter which moves the knob roughly 5 inches forward. I've found two companies willing to do this, MGW and Mcleod. Both seem to have amazing products, I've actually installed a 2010 MGW camaro shifter in at work on a customer's car, it was very high quality. Also, I decided to stick with an internal slave cylinder since it's just one less component to break down and fail (clutch fork and pivot ball), however the OEM unit is complete crap. For this reason I have begun looking into aftermarket units. It would appear that again Mcleod is the vendor of choice and they have almost limitless solutions for my application. This includes having units with 4-an lines, since the oem unit uses a GM specific quick disconnect which you won't find at any store or hydraulic line shop. As for the wiring of the whole thing, the battery is being located underneath the car by the rear differential, and everything will be re-routed accordingly. For wiring the engine itself I laid down each wire individually and then loomed and wrapped the whole thing as one piece. This allowed me to remove approximately 5 lbs of wire from the harness. Nothing had to be lengthened, and all the wires are the oem color so as to have no confusion. I also added in wires from an aftermarket IAT should I chose to go speed density later down the line. Currently I am running an evo 8 maf. You can also find (for possibly cheaper) 3g eclipse units so long as you have some type of engine management to calibrate it. These are the same external dimensions but I believe have some type of restrictor in the front. My wideband o2 sensor will be the only o2 sensor used, as dsmlink can simulate a narrowband o2 sensor and eliminate the need for a 150 dollar factory unit. (although I did find that the early 1g eclipse cars have a cheaper inferior design for around 60 dollars for the oem part from somewhere like extremepsi.com.) The camaro transmission lacks a mechanical speedometer cable output, and there are aftermarket options for this such as one company which actually makes a converter. This thing takes the signal from the gm transmission, spins a motor at the right speed, and allows you to attach your cable and speedometer up to it. There is also an adjustment knob so you can tune it in to the right speed, in case you change tires or something. I will be getting an electronic speedometer to go with the GM electronic signal, however I have yet to find one with the same adjustability of that electrical to mechanical system. As I am changing the rear diff from the factory 3.545 to 4.75 gears, I will need some way to adjust the speedometer I am using. I'm looking for a factory non-ac duct as well, so I might go to the junk yard if the dealer doesn't have it. For those of you who plan on removing your ac system from under your dash like I did, the part number you need is MB123891. Personally, I like the symmetry of the factory steering system, and it seems like a robust system which will provide superior torque over the wheel when I go to wider front tires and thus move the center patch of the tire in relation to the steering axis of the suspension. The play seen in the steering wheel does need to be addressed; however I would be more interested in taking these components apart and rebuilding rather than doing something like DJpowerhaus. Seems like a little bit of overkill to me, particularly when you take into account the other parts of the suspension which the new steering rack has to match identically.

I think I'll stop there, but as you can tell, no leaf will go unturned in this project. Weight is the ultimate enemy.

Brian


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:49 am  Reply with quote
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finished intercooler piping and intake pipe, wiring is done, cars pretty much ready once I can afford the evo 8 front case and oil filter housing, I'm playing around with the idea of saving up for a built bottom end though, since I'll have replaced every other gasket, pulley, and other part I'd want to on the car besides the rods, pistons, and bearings. I'm also considering just dropping in assembled rods and pistons if the walls look good enough.

Brian


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Omni
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 2:48 am  Reply with quote
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how much did u pay for ur bellhousing??
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StarquestRescue
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 6:40 pm  Reply with quote
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Quote:
As I am changing the rear diff from the factory 3.545 to 4.75 gears,
Are you changing the whole rear to a different brand,or just the gears? I have a set of 4cly montero 4.62's for $80 shipped if needed. There are 4.88's out there but they are rare.

Good luck with your project. Pm me if you are interested in the gears.

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88 Conquest 17c
88 Power Ram 50 4x4 2.6 turbo, 4.22 posi
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:17 pm  Reply with quote
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Omni wrote:
how much did u pay for ur bellhousing??


because I am one of the first to use the longshaft ls1 style t-56 bill sent me a kinda custom deal. I'm also not using his standard pivot ball/clutch fork set up as I'm going to use an aftermarket internal slave cylinder setup. This made the costs lower although the internal slave will offset those savings. You'd have to PM him, he's a great guy super helpful. expect around 500 dollars for any of his setups, little less or more depending on what your doing.

StarquestRescue wrote:

tstkl wrote:

As I am changing the rear diff from the factory 3.545 to 4.75 gears,

Are you changing the whole rear to a different brand,or just the gears? I have a set of 4cly montero 4.62's for $80 shipped if needed. There are 4.88's out there but they are rare.

Good luck with your project. Pm me if you are interested in the gears.



I already bought a gearset from someone, he said it was 4.62 gear off a montero, [edit redacted]. It's 37/8 = 4.625

Not sure what they are actually out of but seems like they should line up. If I do end up replacing the rear end it will be with something with a more advanced LSD since I will be road racing this car regularly. If it doesn't pass smog that will be the ONLY use it will ever see.


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92 GSR-4
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:21 pm  Reply with quote
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TsTKI,

How far back will the shifter sit in the car? Any modification to the trans tunnel to get the bell housing to fit?
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 12:37 am  Reply with quote
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The bell housing fits fine, [edit redacted]. I'm getting a custom shifter assembly to move the shifter location roughly 4-6 inches farther forward because the factory location does not suffice. For reference, with the transmission in the forward facing gears (1st, 3rd, 5th) the shifter will barely touch the back of the hole for the factory shifter in the floor of the car. So you need to make up about the whole length of the stroke of the shifter.

edit: while the bell housing fits, the transmission itself does not


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
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92 GSR-4
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 4:32 am  Reply with quote
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That's good news! So you are saying that the T-56 was installed with plenty of clearance, no modification to the trans tunnel whatsoever, and you just need a custom shifter? That sounds great. I was under the assumption the T-56 was a bigger tranny and the R154 was more "user friendly" in regards to fitment. Can you answer a few questions?

1. Is your Starquest an original MT or AT car?

2. Did you mount the motor in the stock location or 2" forward?

3. What model T-56 are you using? LT1 or LS1 (long vs. short shaft)?

Any additional information regarding fitment and any modifications to the body or engine related to using the transmission would be much appreciated. I plan on going the same route when I do mine, I was just debating using the R154 over the T-56.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:26 pm  Reply with quote
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edit: IT DOES NOT FIT

originally an MT 88 conquest SHP. I haven't made a cross member yet, and there might be a very slight amount of clearances needed to get the transmission to fit, but as you can tell by the first picture below, the flywheel and clutch and pressure plate of the factory t-56 is MUCH larger than the factory dsm flywheel and clutch and pressure plate. The OLD way of using this transmission required an adapter plate and a custom flywheel that was the factory t-56 size. That's why the transmission didn't fit back in the day. With this custom bell housing and significantly smaller flywheel it should fit great.

edit: IT DOES NOT FIT

I have the transmission with bell housing on a 6 inch tall cart and put the car on the ground and could move the transmission around, back and forth and side to side, with the shifter in the shifter hole (in 3rd gear, without the custom shifter there isn't the clearance to go into nuetral or anything.) It should fit pretty extremely easily in my opinion. (edit: it doesn't) I'm just saving my ass until its fully bolted up.

The motor is mounted in the stock location, I'm using a 95 style dsm cam angle sensor and crank angle sensor.

I have a 1998 or 1999 LS-1 style long shaft t-56. I'd bet with the short shaft t-56 you could almost get away with the factory shifter assembly.

I'm also planning on going with a stock style throw out bearing and slave cylinder. you could have a custom clutch line made for really cheap and do it quick and dirty, but I'm going with a custom slave cylinder so I don't have any issues at all.

Edit: the transmission is too tall. I am having a new tunnel made. It will be about 2 inches taller than the factory tunnel. The body of the transmission right in front of the shifter is where there is the most space needed, however space is needed in a few other places as well.




I picked up the evo 8 crank this weekend and I've got in contact with mahle for the custom pistons that will be going into the bottom end build.

Sorry the updates are so far and few between, schools been nuts.

Brian

the clutches on each other
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0439.jpg

the new 5 lb lighter crank
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/?action=view&current=P8290027.jpg


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:21 pm; edited 2 times in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:37 pm  Reply with quote
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cosworth crank scraper? yes please

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0567.jpg


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:48 pm  Reply with quote
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well I've been super busy with school and work, so I haven't had a chance to update this very much but I am working towards the final goal. I got a good job finally and have some extra coin to finally finish this thing. The build gets crazier and crazier every day. The good news is the only real parts I have left to purchase are the pistons/rods (which I have the money for just haven't decided what to buy yet) and the stuff relating to the transmission (driveshaft, cross member, shifter assembly, etc) I'm going home this weekend to pick up the block and a few other things so I can have it measured and everything to help me decide which pistons to go with. The head will be cc'ed and balanced on Thursday. I'm hoping to have the car in a start-able condition by mid-December. The transmission is a different story.

I also picked up some vibration resistant connectors from work and am tossing around the idea of getting/wiring a spare car for next season. The wiring harness is already set up to be easy to shoe horn the motor quickly, but these new connectors would make it as easy as twist and pull. Having a full spare suspension etc would be nice too. Anyone know of a cheap silver roller? LOL.

I'll keep you guys updated when I have more time, back to the books now.


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77amc
PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:33 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Jun 2007
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Location: N-W Mississippi, Under Memphis

I wish you could have gotten my red 87 that I ended up stripping for the crusher. I realize that it was red but, it was a shame to drop it off there..

Looks great so far. Doesn't Bill have a silver one?

E

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TsTKl
PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:40 am  Reply with quote
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kiggly HLA pressure regulator? check

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0589.jpg

as for it being red, that's nothing paint can't fix. Its a road racer not a show car, lol. Too bad, why did you crush it?

I've never met bill, I'm 1000's of miles away.


Last edited by TsTKl on Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 2:30 am  Reply with quote
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got my kelford 272 cams and aem cam gears today. Just need to get some new lifters and rockers and then the cylinder head will be done....

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0609.jpg

with intake timing thingy installed...

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0610.jpg

too lazy to open the box and get oil everywhere....that's all you get to see for now.


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77amc
PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:52 am  Reply with quote
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WOW, those gears are pretty nice.. How many layers are they?

E

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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:48 am  Reply with quote
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i think its two, three including that thin shinny gold thing. The window bolts to the teeth on the outside. they are nice, and surprisingly affordable. I've heard the bolts are too thick and prevent the timing cover from bolting on, but I'll find a solution.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:40 pm  Reply with quote
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hahahahahaaha today is a good day.

my evo 8 oil filter housing and front case came, as did my eagle rods.


the case lines up perfectly and can even use the oem 7 bolt tensioner way back in the day.

the oil relief is ported from the factory (I guess ported is the wrong word as its just cast larger than the oem dsm one) and the oil cooler lines are HUGE.

Win for me!

Pictures as usual.

oem mitsu stuff:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0622.jpg

eagle rods:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0621.jpg


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77amc
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:11 pm  Reply with quote
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I got some eagle rods for a B-18 Honda project and MAN, surprisingly heavy!

So, trying to learn more about the Mitsu stuff..

Part # and price of the gears please.

What does this 'new' 7-bolt piece do? Why? New or used/remaned? What other engines is this on?

Sorry for the q's BUT..

Thanks E

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77amc
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:17 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Jun 2007
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Location: N-W Mississippi, Under Memphis

TsTKl wrote:
kiggly HLA pressure regulator? check



as for it being red, thats nothing paint can't fix. Its a road racer not a showcar, lol. Too bad, why did you crush it?

I've never met bill, I'm 1000's of miles away.




I've had to crush two of them. Well, stripped them first (like I don't need MORE parts laying around here) One was rusted too badly in the floor and just decided to take a different direction by using my ol Hornet (Hotrodcoffeeshop.com under BUILDS) with some mitsu parts.

Yours is beautiful btw. Good luck.

E

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TsTKl
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 3:10 am  Reply with quote
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77amc wrote:
I got some eagle rods for a B-18 Honda project and MAN, surprisingly heavy!

So, trying to learn more about the Mitsu stuff..

Part # and price of the gears please.

What does this 'new' 7-bolt piece do? Why? New or used/remaned? What other engines is this on?

Sorry for the q's BUT..

Thanks E


the cam gears I'm assuming. Fair market price is ~120 each, or 240 for the set. part number is aem-23-830BK

I got the eagle rods because I have a ton of friends who put down 600+whp with them and they weigh less than most of the rods on the market (list weight) and are dirt cheap. The only Chinese part on my car if I'm not mistaken. kinda an important one too,... luckily I know more than tens of thousands of people have used these rods in this motor and had great success.

not sure what you mean by 'new' 7 bolt piece but if your talking about the evo 8 oil filter housing and front case, the oil filter housing has larger oil lines and points the oil filter down so that my oil filter doesn't point towards the sub frame preventing me from changing it (I had an evo III oil filter housing which did what I just described) and the oem 1g dsm oil filter housing doesn't allow for an external oil cooler.

The front case was a little bit of a "just cuz" scenario. the 1g 7 bolt front case has the bolt holes for the front crank angle sensor, but isn't clearanced for the sensor, so you can't actually run it. The 2g one would have sufficed, but I wanted to see if the evo 8 one would it. It does. I figured the oil pump would be better and possibly other changes. The only thing I've noticed that I would say is a worthwhile "upgrade" is that the oil relief port is much larger than oem 1g/2g front cases and thus doesn't need to be ported. Porting that hole is extremely easy though, so in the long run it doesn't matter.


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 10:38 pm  Reply with quote
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didn't think this would happen, but right now the project isn't being held up by money, its by me not knowing which products to buy. I can't decide on:

which lifters
machined keepers or oem
which headgasket

I'm ordering the pistons tomorrow, just have to make some phone calls and make sure that I can get the exact pistons I want, since no one lists them on their website (lucky me).

Also, jay racing is taking forever with my alternator relocation kit.

the block has been bored and were waiting on the pistons to hone them and then the bottom end can be assembled. The whole thing should be together by the end of this month hopefully.


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 1:18 am  Reply with quote
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cylinders bored, pistons ordered, pistons arrived, cylinders ready to be honed.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0645.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0641.jpg


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JDOliver
PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:07 pm  Reply with quote
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What's the specs on those pistons? Are you raising or lowering compression? I didn't see anywhere in the posts that you are running a non standard crankshaft or rod size.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:14 pm  Reply with quote
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the crank is just the oem crank straight out of a 2005 evo 8, so its 88mm stroke. The rods are standard eagle rods, 150mm in length with a 22mm wrist pin bore. The pistons are a gem I found by searching through catalogs on mahle part numbers. They are .020" over bored 9:1 compression pistons, which we all know doesn't mean shit since the block has been machined and so everything will be different. The thinking behind going with these power pak* pistons over their higher end 2618 alloy power pak plus pistons is that this car is going to be road raced, so lower expansion pistons will cause less drag and issues in a high reving built motor. Also, Mahle makes the oem evo 8, 9 and 10 pistons, and they were the lightest. On top of that, they are also the only aftermarket piston I found to use the correct compression height, which allows for better piston to valve clearances. Oem spec is 34.7mm for anyone who is wondering. Most aftermarket pistons are 35mm which puts the top of the piston level with or sticking out of a decked block.

I almost finished my abs delete today. Just gotta put two bends into my custom tube and then its done. Its a super easy solution to deleting the oem abs system. Eventually a proportioning valve will be installed.


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:12 am  Reply with quote
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cleaned the engine bay:


upsidedown....

not done yet,...

pictures are crappy because its cold outside and I was shaking...
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Mad Menace
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:08 am  Reply with quote
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Quote:
which lifters
machined keepers or oem
which headgasket


3g lifters with updated oiling holes
Machined keepers IMO, but I too went OEM
You need the "K" style head gasket

hope this helps

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Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:30 pm  Reply with quote
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hey, thanks for the reply

I was always planning on running 3g lifters, it was just a question of which brand. I went with ITM because I've spoken to a ton of guys who run them and they all said there was zero tick. The dealer was obviously my first choice, but they wanted 840 dollars for a set. Steep for something so simple. Then I looked into SBI and GSC but ITM had the best track record and the best price.

I could only find one source of machined keepers, and I'm not too fond of this shops work from what I've seen on customers cars who ordered from him, so after talking to kiggly I decided to go with oem keepers.

again with headgasket I'm just not sure on the brand. I still haven't picked which one to go with. I know a lot of people like the permatorque feltpro gasket, but I'm leaning towards the OEM mitsu headgasket after seeing what the oem evo 8 headgasket is capable of. I haven't heard anything bad about the mitsu MLS headgasket for dsms, just everyone who ran crazy boost chose to run a different gasket. That could be out of ignorance more than knowledge though. The aftermarket isn't always better than oem. Look at the oem oil filters, hahaha.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:38 am  Reply with quote
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picked up my tilton engineering pedal assembly and the engine is almost done at the machine shop. I think I had something else to say but can't remember it right now.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:38 am  Reply with quote
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finally found time to assemble my cylinder head. Decided to get the engine bay painted because of all the spilled brake fluid. Won't ever have to worry about that again.... Yes I have both cam gears I just didn't put the intake cam gear on because I have to put the cam angle sensor under it anyways.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0681.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0682.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0684.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0685.jpg


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Bill Hincher
PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:01 am  Reply with quote
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Location: Toledo,Ohio

TsTKl wrote:
the crank is just the oem crank straight out of a 2005 evo 8, so its 88mm stroke. The rods are standard eagle rods, 150mm in length with a 22mm wrist pin bore. The pistons are a gem I found by searching through catalogs on mahle part numbers. They are .020" over bored 9:1 compression pistons, which we all know doesn't mean shit since the block has been machined and so everything will be different. The thinking behind going with these power pak* pistons over their higher end 2618 alloy power pak plus pistons is that this car is going to be road raced, so lower expansion pistons will cause less drag and issues in a high reving built motor. Also, Mahle makes the oem evo 8, 9 and 10 pistons, and they were the lightest. On top of that, they are also the only aftermarket piston I found to use the correct compression height, which allows for better piston to valve clearences. Oem spec is 34.7mm for anyone who is wondering. Most aftermarket pistons are 35mm which puts the top of the piston level with or sticking out of a decked block.

I almost finished my abs delete today. Just gotta put two bends into my custom tube and then its done. Its a super easy solution to deleting the oem abs system. Eventually a proportioning valve will be installed.


I never had any luck with Wisco pistons, its like they didnt have the right alloy worked out, my only experience came on air cooled engines but , they were real critical on side skirt clearance. the pistons would swell fast and sieze
Have you worked out a good clearance number? and ring gap number? are the pistons drilled to oil the wrist pins from under the oil ring?

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cordell
PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 4:16 pm  Reply with quote
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hey man i see it says your running a 2g cam sensor, which is on the front of the head right by the cam gears? if so it will be the same one as my project. are your aftermarket cam gears for this sensor? i havent seen any were i live to by for the front set up cause of the inlet gear being diffrent
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:34 pm  Reply with quote
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Bill Hincher wrote:
I never had any luck with Wisco pistons, its like they didnt have the right alloy worked out, my only experience came on air cooled engines but , they were real critical on side skirt clearance. the pistons would swell fast and sieze
Have you worked out a good clearance number? and ring gap number? are the pistons drilled to oil the wrist pins from under the oil ring?


I've heard bad stuff about the wisco's too. the standard ones are cracking and the HD ones have poor tolerances from what I've seen. That's part of the reason why I didn't go with their product.

I'm using the clearances recommended by mahle themselves. The pistons are coated so the PTW clearance isn't really measurable because you'll scratch the coating while measuring the pistons and you don't know exactly how thick the coating is. So Mahle recommends a target bore size of 3.366 or whatever it is. For the ring gap, assuming I remember correctly its 0.055"

Not sure about the pistons being drilled, I'm currently in Hawaii. I'll check when I get back.

cordell wrote:
hey man i see it says your running a 2g cam sensor, which is on the front of the head right by the cam gears? if so it will be the same one as my project. are your aftermarket cam gears for this sensor? i havent seen any were i live to by for the front set up cause of the inlet gear being diffrent


yeah you can actually see it in the picture I posted. The part number is:

AEM-23-830BK


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cordell
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 2:15 am  Reply with quote
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ok sweet as. did it come with the timing thing? or did you have to take that off an old cam gear?
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:55 pm  Reply with quote
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you need the timing trigger wheel and the screws

its actually installed 180 degrees off in the picture. I should probably take that picture down and put a new one up so people don't make that mistake.
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TsTKl
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:18 am  Reply with quote
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hey guys, I've been extremely extremely busy lately over the past couple of months or however long its been. I've been prepping the SHIT out of the engine bay, its entirely stripped, not a single body panel, line, wire, or anything is left. I bead blasted the sub frame to 100% bare metal and then had it powder coated. It looks FUCKING AMAZING. I'll post some pictures up tomorrow or later this weekend. I've been working 65 hours per week at my new job so time is short. Can't wait for this car to be done. Block is almost done just needs to be assembled. after I paint the engine bay it will all start coming together very quickly. I've decided to go with a steering rack, starting to think the best way of doing it was how dj or whatever did it. hopefully I can figure out an easier way for your average conquester to do it.


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TsTKl
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 10:49 pm  Reply with quote
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what I've been up to

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0764.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0763.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0761.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0758.jpg

wheel well

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0780.jpg

motor mounts

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0768.jpg

these pictures are old, but with my job and the weather and such I haven't had time to take completely up to date pictures. I should be able to spray pretty soon though. The ENTIRE front clip will be painted. Front sub frame was bead blasted and powder coated. hehehe

I'm going to try and do the final assembly of the motor this week.


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dees75z
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 4:39 pm  Reply with quote
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Looking good man. What is the purpose of the kiggly oil pressure regulator?? I understand what a regulator does but don't see how that will "regulate" oil pressure, excuses my ignorance...............
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