First time posting here, been reading ideas for some time now.
My project is 4g63 in my Starion. I have a 4g63 Wide block to bolt to the stock starion transmission. The head is a 1G so it has the big CAS on the back. I was reading on the engine spec and year form on this site that there were some produced from 92 to 94 that are turbo engines without Cam or Crank sensors? Not sure how those ECUs worked but curious if anyone knows anything about those. Maybe where those were used and how they differ from the standard ones...good or bad to run this way?
Option two is can the 1G head use the 2G 95-96 front mounted CAS sensor with the 93 ECU?
Thanks in advance for everyones help, be talking more as this project gets underway!
90-94 had a cam sensor on the intake cam by the t stat housing only.
95-96 had a crank sensor and a cam sensor the was part of the intake cam gear.
97-99 had a crank sensor and a cam sensor that was back on the t stat side of the cam.
If you were to run a 95/96 cam gear style sensor you would need either a 2g head or to weld boss's to bolt the sensor to the head under the cam gear.
Hope this helps.
P.s. a 90 cad is the only year for its type. It has a long pig tail on the that plugs into the harness. The 91-94 only have a plug on the body of the sensor that the harness plugs into.
_________________ 88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
The hall effect sensors in the blacktop are pretty much the same sensors you'll find on a 95/96, just cast into plastic that can fit in a cam sensor mounted to the back of the head. The "crank" trigger is simply the 2 tooth 95/96 design doubled to make 4 teeth. Inside of that ring there is another sensor that is the cam trigger which has 2 uneven teeth. This matches the intake cam trigger from the 95/96.
I'm working on a bracket to mount two 95/96 style cam sensors on the front of a 1G head. It will use a stock 95/96 style cam gear (2.0 or 2.4) and a second intake gear modified so its timing marks match an exhaust wheel and the trigger wheel simulates the crank signal.
Only requires 2 parts to be fabricated (The trigger wheel and the plate) + splicing two OEM sensors together. Mostly DIY stuff with minimal tools and should once and for all end the need to move the motor forward or cut the firewall.
Like the 95/96 sensors, it won't be adjustable outside of software, unless you slot some holes.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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