Break booster dealeat

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Jkk5988
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Break booster dealeat

Post by Jkk5988 »

I am in the prasess of doing a 4g63 swap in my quest and my intake manifold is not clearing the booster has any one dune a brake booster dealeat before and if so can you point me in the right diracsoin ? Thanks
RaptorReed
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Post by RaptorReed »

There are couple things you could do, like using a aftermarket intake manifold, finding a different booster to use, or like what I'm doing (not on quest though) converting to manual brakes which eliminates the booster altogether, but that itself leaves more to be done (Single Master Cylinder, Dual Master Cylinder.
92 Galant VR-4
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Jkk5988
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Post by Jkk5988 »

Yes I have a FRH intake manifold I would like too use . Is there a good brake booster dealeat kit with like a willwood master cylinder out there ? Or what other booster I could use that's smaller and move the eng foreword 2" and clear it?
RaptorReed
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Post by RaptorReed »

Jkk5988 wrote:Yes I have a FRH intake manifold I would like too use . Is there a good brake booster dealeat kit with like a willwood master cylinder out there ? Or what other booster I could use that's smaller and move the eng foreword 2" and clear it?
You probably won't find any "kits" to delete the booster, Wilwood does offer compact master cylinders as well as numerous pedal assemblies if you want to go that route like me. You may need new lines or adapter fittings, converting from boosted to manual brakes isn't going to be a simple bolt on affair or a common swap. A compact Master cylinder may suit your needs if you just want the brakes to clear the intake or you could have the runners on your intake manifold shortened.
92 Galant VR-4
94 Montero SR LWB
76 Galant Coupe
79 Sigma Wagon
88 Starion 4g64T 5spd swapped
Jkk5988
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Post by Jkk5988 »

I ordered this today http://www.chasebays.com/brands/chase-b ... eliminator and my eng is moved 2" foreword so I hope it works and I do half too run brake lines but not a big deal.
Backpack09
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Post by Backpack09 »

Has anyone gone the hydroboost method yet?
Richard
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Post by Richard »

If your using a 2G style head you can also use a (modified) evo manifold
That clears the stock booster like it was made for it.
4G63 DOHC 7 Bolt in a Starion.
dwlee
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Post by dwlee »

Here is an modified evo4 inlet manifold that will fit.
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77amc
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Post by 77amc »

Speedway motors out in Ca has several 'street rod' booster kits in a number of diameters.
I think they had a dual diaphram 7" And with 1 1/8" bore'd master cyl they sell, That's a LOT of fluid pushing.!

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dual-Diap ... 37181.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Single-Di ... 36759.html

I'm going with a Hydro boost in my 77 hornet and 67 Jeep M715 and Lt1 powered BMW 328i vert.
Just don't know what the pressure difference is between a Mitsu power steering pump and GM hydro for the hornet.

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Professor Quest
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Post by Professor Quest »

On the 2.2L, PT Cruiser engines...the thermostat housing, is a seperate part,
that requires, a lil' bit of modifaction, to work on a 2.6L Mitsu! :wink: :idea: :arrow:

What I also sell:
Ali. brake master cylinder w/resvoir, w/smaller OD brake booster. $150+ shipping.

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and making it a bolt-on, closer to the firewall.
Image

But, no stranger to have manual brakes, either.
Image

Our Pro Drift Car, 2012 Mustang, has all Wilwood, manual brakes hydraulics & calipers
and rear axle lock-up, also manual.

The Lexus is a amature drift car. But, damn good driver!

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r
The million dollar manual and AFFORDABLE parts too! USE IT!
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12
email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net USE IT!
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DJpowerHaus
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Re: Break booster dealeat

Post by DJpowerHaus »

Jkk5988 wrote:I am in the prasess of doing a 4g63 swap in my quest and my intake manifold is not clearing the booster has any one dune a brake booster dealeat before and if so can you point me in the right diracsoin ? Thanks
I've gotten my 1G intake to fit with the brake booster in place on my swaps. Have you tried cutting the throttle body flange off the back rather than just bolting on a block off plate?
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
AustinTSI
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Post by AustinTSI »

If you really want to do it the right way then do what I'm going to do.

I'm going to be running of the hydro electric PS pumps from the new (2011+) v6 Jeeps to run not only my power steering but my brakes. I got the master cylinder from a Cobra Mustang that used Hydro Boost instead of a vacuum diaphragm (do a search on ebay for Ford Mustang Hydro boost). These brake harder than diaphragms which is why they are also using them on the big Ford and Chevy trucks. The pump will also of course be running the power steering. The really nice things is that even if the engine stalls or I run out of gas, the brakes and the steering will still be powered as long as the battery is good. IF the whole electrical system shorts the brakes will still work due to the pressure cylinder (coke can looking thing) on the booster and the steering will still work manually.

Some people use the MR2 PS pump. My problem with the MR2 pump is that they all have 80k+ miles on them, you can't get a new one, rebuilds are hard to find, and they are 10+ years old. A lot of jeeps are coming out with these, even more in the years to come, because it helps with fuel economy and they will be offered as new and rebuilds at your local autoparts place and you'll be able to find them at local salvage yards. A foreign model is available but you can only get them from Europe.
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